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Equinox by Sanjana Patel

This entremet is a blend of intense and light notes, capturing the essence of Ratnagiri cold brew coffee. The composition features a rich and airy mascarpone mousse, artfully juxtaposed with a tart Calamansi compote. Layers of nutty hazelnut dacquoise and a coffee streusel praline contribute to the intricate dance of flavors, creating a dessert that is simultaneously bold and delicate. The inspiration for Equinox traces back to the World Pastry Queen Championship, and my goal was to elevate the local Arabica coffee. To do this, I introduced the vibrant citrusy notes of Indian Calamansi lime from Pondicherry, redefining the traditional tiramisu. The infusion of local Ratnagiri coffee from Maharashtra adds a distinctive regional touch, making Equinox a testament to the art of expanding the flavor profile of Indian ingredients.

Yield: four 1100-g entremets


Biscuit Moka

  • 140 g cocoa paste (Idukki Hills Kerala)
  • 285 g egg yolks
  • 175 g sorbitol powder, divided
  • 20 g maple syrup
  • 60 g café moka
  • 442 egg whites
  1. Line baking trays with 12ʺ x 16ʺ (30 x 40 cm) flexi pans.
  2. Melt the cocoa paste and keep it warm at 122-131°F (50-55°C).
  3. Whisk the egg yolks with 100 g of the sorbitol powder and the maple syrup until it reaches ribbon consistency. Add the melted cocoa paste and café moka and whisk well.
  4. Whip the egg whites to soft peaks, then gradually add the remaining 75 g sorbitol powder and whip to medium peaks.
  5. Fold the meringue into the cocoa mixture in 3 additions. Pour the batter onto the flexi pans (550 g in each pan). Spread the batter evenly using an offset metal spatula.
  6. Preheat the oven to 356°F (180°C), fan speed 5. Bake the gluten-free sponge at 338°F (170°C) for 13 minutes at fan speed 5. Once baked, transfer the cake base into freezer so that the sponge does not sink and reserves its texture.

Chocolate Coffee Streusel 

  • 128 g unsalted butter, softened
  • 128 g coconut sugar
  • 52 g oat flour
  • 52 g quinoa flour
  • 128 g almond powder
  • 1.5 g sea salt
  • 50 g dark chocolate 55% (Kerala Idukki)
  • 60 g Kerala coconut milk chocolate 40%
  • 60 g Ratnagiri coffee beans
  1. In an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix the butter and sugar together without aerating.
  2. Sift the gluten-free flours and together and combine with the salt. Mix the dry ingredients into the mixture.
  3. Grate the streusel over a parchment lined baking tray. Freeze the streusel before baking.
  4. Bake the frozen streusel in a preheated oven at 320°F (160°C) for 12-14 minutes at fan speed. Cool.
  5. Melt the chocolates and mix in the streusel. Layer it in 12ʺ x 16ʺ (30 x 40 cm) frame at 4mm thickness.

Kalamansi and Pear Lime Soft Gel

  • 206 g Pondicherry Kalamansi lime purée
  • 206 g pear purée
  • 1 Kerala vanilla bean, split and scraped
  • 60 g invert sugar
  • 60 g granulated sugar
  • 6 g pectin NH
  1. Warm the purées with the scraped vanilla bean and invert sugar to 113°F (45°C). Mix the sugar with the pectin and add to the purée mixture. Bring to a boil and let it simmer for 2 minutes, stirring constantly with a whisk. Cool down and blend well.
  2. Pour into the special cube mold for setting the compote.

Crème Anglaise Base

  • 220 g milk
  • 100 g Ratnagiri coffee, roasted and ground
  • 220 g heavy cream 35.5%
  • 88 g egg yolks
  • 43 g coconut sugar
  1. Infuse milk with roasted ground coffee overnight.
  2. Bring infusion to a boil, then remove from heat and allow to infuse for 10 minutes more. Strain and reweigh, adding more milk, if necessary.
  3. Add cream to infused milk and bring to a simmer. Whisk egg yolks and sugar together, then temper into the milk. Cook mixture, stirring constantly, to 180°F (82°C).

Ratnagiri Coffee and Coconut Milk Chocolate Cremeux

  • 9 g gelatin sheets (200-bloom), bloomed
  • 579 g Crème Anglaise Base
  • 190 g Mysore single-origin milk chocolate 40%
  • 100 g Kerala coconut milk chocolate 60%
  1. Blend the gelatin with the Crème Anglaise Base and melted chocolate to make a coffee cremeux.
  2. Pour it on the compote layer in the special silicone cube mold.

Cold Brew Coconut Coffee Mousse

  • 450 g heavy cream 35.5%
  • 471 g Ratnagiri cold-brew coffee
  • 500 g pasteurized coconut cream
  • ½ Kerala vanilla bean, split and scraped
  • 24 g gelatin sheets, bloomed
  • 100 g mascarpone
  • 150 g Italian meringue
  1. Whip cream to soft peaks.
  2. Warm the cold-brew coffee, coconut cream and vanilla bean to 140°F (60°C). Blend in the gelatin and mascarpone cheese. Fold in the Italian meringue. and then fold in the whipped cream at 86°F (30°C).

Assembly

  1. Pipe the mousse into a square silicone mold and mask the sides of the mold with mousse using a palette knife. Place the compote and cremeux frozen insert into the mousse. Pipe a little layer of mousse on top, then add the biscuit. Finish with the streusel. Freeze the cake. If there is left over mousse you can use a palette knife to spread and make effects on the surface of the entremet.
  2. Spray paint when frozen to 10.4°F (-12°C). Pipe leftover compote gel dots on top.

(This recipe appeared in the Winter 2024 issue of Pastry Arts Magazine)

Staff
Staff
Pastry Arts Magazine is the new resource for pastry & baking professionals designed to inspire, educate and connect the pastry community as an informational conduit spotlighting the trade.

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