The Fall 2023 by Mary George

I created this dish because I absolutely adore the flavors of the fall season. One of the desserts that I both love to make and eat is pumpkin pie. With this creation, I wanted to take elements of the American classic dessert and add my own abstract and conceptual style. To do this, I’ve chosen to create an entremets gateau, while incorporating fruit elements like tart blackberries and warm spices like tonka bean and cinnamon. The colors of this dessert where all inspired by the flavor elements of this dessert.

Yield: 12 individual servings

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Vanilla Bean Sablée

• 300 g unsalted butter
• 200 g brown sugar
• 1 vanilla bean, split and scraped
• 100 g whole eggs
• 525 g all-purpose flour
• 2 g sea salt

1. Cream the butter, sugar and vanilla together with a paddle attachment until pale and creamy.

Add the eggs slowly until combined Add the flour and salt until just combined and crumbly dough has formed.

2. Roll between 2 sheets until 1ʺ (2.5 cm) thick. Cut into desired shapes. Bake at 334°F (168°C) for 8-10 minutes.

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Pumpkin Pie Brulée

• 300 g egg yolks
• 725 g heavy cream
• 175 g brown sugar
• 20 g roasted vanilla powder
• 2 whole vanilla beans scraped
• 12 g titanium gelatin leaves, bloomed
• 160 g pumpkin purée

1. Create an anglaise base with the egg yolks, cream, sugar and vanilla and cook to 181°F (83°C).

Add the bloomed gelatin leaves, whisking to dissolve. Whisk in the purée.

2. Pour into desired molds.

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Spiced Olive Oil Tender Biscuit

• 300 g whole milk
• 150 g whole eggs
• 200 g olive oil
• 425 g all-purpose flour
• 250 g granulated sugar
• 1 g sea salt
• 3 g baking powder
• 5 g cinnamon powder
• 5 g nutmeg powder
• 2 g cloves powder
• 3 g ginger powder

1. Blend milk, eggs and olive oil together.

2. Combine all dry ingredients together with a paddle attachment. Slowly stream the liquid mixture into the dry mixture to form a loose cake batter. Bake at 329°F (165°C) for 8-12 minutes.

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Blackberry and Tonka Bean Crème Legere

• 360 g blackberry purée
• 150 g egg yolks
• 100 g granulated sugar
• 41 g cornstarch
• 35 g unsalted butter
• 6 g titanium gelatin leaves, bloomed
• 445 g heavy cream
• 30 g confectioners’ sugar
• 3 g finely grated tonka beans

1. Heat the purée.

2. Combine the egg yolks with the cornstarch and sugar. Combine and cook to a pastry cream.

Remove from the heat and add the bloomed gelatin leaves. Cool down to 95°F (35°C).

3. Whip the cream and confectioners’ sugar to medium-stiff peaks. Fold into the pastry cream base to form a light-textured mousse. Pipe into desired molds.

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White Chocolate Glaze

• 500 g confectioners’ sugar
• 220 g heavy cream
• 410 g water
• 120 g glucose
• 520 g white chocolate
• 300 g sweetened condensed milk
• 300 g evaporated milk
• 220 g gelatin mass
• 2 g white food water soluble food coloring
• 2 g purple water-soluble food coloring
• 2 g golden yellow water-soluble food coloring

1. Make a heated sugar syrup with the confectioners’ sugar, cream, water and glucose.  Add the white chocolate, condensed and evaporated milk and gelatin mass. Emulsify with an immersion blender.

2.  Divide the glaze into 3 equal amounts, and color separately. Use at 90°F (32°C).

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Maple Leaf Tuile

• 250 g unsalted butter
• 60 g maple sugar
• 200 g confectioners’ sugar
• 275 g egg whites
• 300 g all-purpose flour

1. Cream the butter and sugars together until creamy and pale. Add egg whites and combine. Add flour and mix to form a batter.

2. Spread over maple leaf stencil onto baking mat and bake at 284°F (140°C) for 5-7 minutes.

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Cinnamon White Chocolate Shards

• 300 g white couverture chocolate
• 10 g ground cinnamon
• 5 g white fat-soluble food coloring

1. Temper the white chocolate to 82°F (28°C) and add cinnamon and food coloring.

2. Spread thinly over acetate sheets. Set at room temperature. Break into shards to use as garnish.

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Assembly

• Micro herbs
• Gold leaf

1. Pipe the crème legere into mold* first and scrape up the sides of each cavity to avoid air pockets. Place Pumpkin Brulée insert in the center. Pipe more legere over the pumpkin insert.

2. Place the spiced biscuit on top as the final layer in the mold, and scrape off the excess for a smooth and level surface. Blast freeze for 2 hours, or until the entremet is able to be unmolded. If using a standard household freezer, this needs to be refrigerated for at least 24 hours before being unmolded.

3. Glaze each entremet individually using the 3 colored glazes made.

4. For the montage of the dessert, place one individual glazed entremet onto each individual sablée in the center of the plate. Place 2 maple tuile leaves on top. Decorate with chocolate shards. Garnish with micro herbs of choice, and a light dusting of gold leaf.

*Note: I used Silikomart “ECLAIR 120″ Flexible Baking & Freezing Mold, 4 Oz., 8 Cavities. Size: 5.3″ x 1.1″ x 1.5” H (135mm x 28mm x 37mm H).

(This recipe appeared in the Fall 2023 issue of Pastry Arts Magazine)

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About Mary George

Mary George is the Pastry Sous Chef in Restaurant Daniel, New York, NY. At the age of 13, she knew that she wanted to become a pastry chef. Her two biggest influences were her mother and her love of sweets. Her signature style is best described as artistic and bold. She loves to reference art styles and time periods through her dessert, especially abstract and conceptual art.