Peach ‘Upside’ Down by Jordan Snider

(This recipe appeared in the Summer 2022 issue of Pastry Arts Magazine)

The inspiration for this dish comes from a classic dessert.  We have amazing peaches in South Carolina, and I wanted to highlight them with a nod to the classic Pineapple Upside-Down Cake.

Yield: 24 servings

Caramelized Peaches

• 600 g peaches (fresh or IQF)
• 100 g brown sugar
• 40 g unsalted butter
• 30 g honey
• 4 g pectin NH
• 2 vanilla beans, split and scraped
• 50 g passion fruit purée               

1. If using fresh peaches, first blanch and remove the skin. For either type, dice the peaches uniformly for even cooking.

2. In a sauté pan, combine the brown sugar, butter, honey, pectin NH and vanilla beans over high heat. Allow to form a thick syrup, then add the peaches and passion fruit puré Cook quickly and drain off excess caramel, reserving the peaches.

Pain de Genes

• 750 g almond paste
• 480 g whole eggs
• 240 g egg yolks
• 240 g unsalted butter, melted
• 150 g all-purpose flour
• 10 g baking powder

1. Warm the almond paste (so that it will be easier to incorporate with the eggs).

2. Whip the almond paste and slowly add the whole eggs. Add the egg yolks and mix until smooth, then continue whipping until light in color. Add the melted butter. Fold in the sifted dry ingredients. Scrape into sheet pan and bake at 350˚F (177˚C) until golden brown, about 12 minutes.

Caramelized Puffed Rice

• 400 g granulated sugar, divided
• 120 g water, divided
• 200 g puffed rice
• 30 g cocoa butter

1. Using 200 g of the sugar and 60 g of the water, make a sugar syrup and cook to 248˚F (120˚C). Add the puffed rice and allow to cool on a silicone baking mat.

2. Using the remaining 200 g of the sugar and 60 g of the water, make another sugar syrup and cook to 248˚F (120˚C). Add all the ‘sanded’ puffed rice and re-crystallize, then caramelize slowly as a praline. Add the cocoa butter to prevent the cereal from sticking together, and cool. Store in an airtight container with desiccant.

Vanilla Bavarois

• 3 vanilla beans
• 250 g whole milk
• 100 g egg yolks
• 75 g brown sugar
• 250 g heavy cream
• 60 g gelatin mass (1:5)
• 300 g whipped cream (soft peaks)
• 100 g mascarpone cheese

1. Infuse vanilla beans in the milk for 30 minutes. Strain and readjust the weight of the milk to the original quantity.

2. Whisk the egg yolks with the sugar and add to the milk with the heavy cream. Cook slowly, stirring constantly, until mixture reaches 185˚F (85˚C). Add the gelatin mass and strain. Refrigerate overnight.

3. Whip the anglaise base until loosened and airy, then fold in soft peaked whipped cream and mascarpone and use immediately.

Roasted Peach Purée

• 500 g peaches (fresh or IQF)
• 50 g brown sugar

1. If using fresh peaches, blanch, then remove the skin. Mix with brown sugar and roast at 400˚F (204˚C) until caramelized on the edges. While still warm, blend smooth on high speed and strain.  Cool overnight.

Roasted Peach Ice Cream

• 210 g whole milk
• 100 g heavy cream
• 20 g trimoline
• 120 g granulated sugar
• 40 g dextrose
• 75 g skim milk powder
• 5 g ice cream stabilizer
• 500 g Roasted Peach Purée (from above)
• 50 g passion fruit purée

1. Combine the milk, cream and trimoline and heat to 122˚F (50˚C).

2. Combine the sugar, dextrose, milk powder and stabilizer and whisk into the liquid base. Pasteurize at 185˚F (85˚C), strain and chill quickly to safe temperature, then refrigerate overnight.

3. Burr mix the milk base with the roasted peach and passion fruit purées for 2-3 minutes, until well combined.

4. Churn in an ice cream machine to desired firmness.

Assembly

• Gold leaf

1. Cast white chocolate around a cylinder form.

2. Assemble the dessert à la minute: Put a disc of pain de genes on the bottom of the cylinder. Fill with some Vanilla Bavarois, then some Caramelized Puffed Rice. Scoop some of the peach ice cream inside and then top with the Caramelized Peaches. Decorate with a piece of gold leaf and serve immediately.

About Jordan Snider

Jordan Snider is the Executive Pastry Chef of The Sanctuary at Kiawah Island, SC. He enjoys classic pastry and preparations, well executed and beautifully presented. He gets inspiration for new recipes from his staff and fellow chefs. Sometimes ideas come through brainstorming menus with our culinary team.