The Cocoa Crisis: Is a New Form of Adaptability on the Horizon in the Pastry World?

By Shawn Wenner

For pastry professionals, cocoa is more than just an ingredient – it’s the foundation of their craft. However, a convergence of environmental, economic and social factors is severely straining the global cocoa supply, with significant implications for the pastry industry.

At the heart of this crisis are West Africa’s cocoa producing nations of Ghana and Ivory Coast, which collectively supply over 60% of the world’s cocoa beans. Both countries are experiencing disastrous harvests, with yields plunging to multi-decade lows. What some see as the culprits are factors such as rising temperatures, erratic rainfall patterns and the proliferation of crop diseases impacting aging cocoa plantations.

Rampant deforestation and unsustainable farming practices such as illicit mining have also degraded once fertile soils. Decades of inadequate pay have trapped cocoa farmers in a cycle of poverty, with little means to invest in modern agricultural methods or climate resilience strategies.

The consequences are reverberating globally. Supply deficits have sent cocoa futures soaring over 50% in the past year alone to historic highs above $3,400 per metric ton. The result could lead to chocolate makers passing these inflated costs to consumers, making cocoa-based products more of a luxury.

For pastry professionals who rely on high-quality chocolate as a core ingredient, this supply crunch could severely impact operations and profitability. The perceived scarcity is driving up costs for premium couverture chocolate, and some worry it could force producers to ration dwindling stocks, potentially compromising quality, according to analysts following the situation.

However, the cocoa crisis represents more than just supply-chain woes. Some argue the industry’s historical pursuit of low-cost production perpetuated a system that exploited cocoa farmers through unfair labor practices and unlivable incomes. And while many chocolate companies and organizations have made radical changes through the recent years to reverse historical practices, some believe there are also environmental repercussions, with claims that impoverished farmers clear protected lands to eke out meager yields.

While the outlook appears bleak, the cocoa crisis also presents pastry professionals with an opportunity to be catalysts for positive change within their sphere of influence. Through ethical sourcing choices, pastry professionals can support sustainable cocoa suppliers who prioritize fair wages, environmental stewardship and growth for farming communities.

Pastry professionals can also educate consumers about the true costs of quality chocolate, helping shift value perceptions. Rethinking pricing models to account for higher ingredient costs may be necessary as well. Though an adjustment, this supports a system that uplifts cocoa farmers while still delivering an uncompromised pastry experience.

Admittedly, no single pastry professional can reverse systemic challenges such as climate change or economic turmoil overnight. But by channeling their passion for their craft, pastry professionals can inspire broader consumer consciousness around sustainability and ethical sourcing.

In the face of these challenges, pastry professionals have a unique opportunity to showcase their creativity and resourcefulness. One potential adaptation could be exploring alternative ingredients that can partially substitute for cocoa in certain applications – think nut flours, fruit powders, or even vegetable-based options such as beetroot or sweet potato. While not a direct replacement, these ingredients could help stretch cocoa supplies further and spark exciting new flavor combinations.

Pastry professionals might also consider featuring a greater variety of non-chocolate desserts on their menus, celebrating local and seasonal ingredients. This could be an opportunity to educate customers about the rich diversity of pastry traditions beyond chocolate, while also reducing reliance on a single, strained commodity.

On the operational side, flexibility could mean reassessing portion sizes and pricing structures. Creating smaller, more intricate desserts that command a higher price point could help offset increased ingredient costs while delivering memorable dining experiences. Partnering with other local businesses, such as coffee roasters or fruit growers, could lead to creative collaborations and mutually beneficial supply arrangements.

Ultimately, I believe the pastry community’s resilience and ability to adapt will be its greatest strengths in navigating this crisis. By staying nimble, creative and open to change, pastry professionals can find innovative ways to thrive amidst challenges and uncertainties. It’s an opportunity to reaffirm the artistry, ingenuity and resourcefulness at the heart of the pastry world.

Current projections indicate extremes such as drought, flooding and temperature fluctuations could become more frequent, potentially creating volatility in the cocoa trade. The present crisis is a wake-up call, but also an opportunity for the pastry community to demonstrate leadership. By prioritizing ethical sourcing, minimizing waste and championing quality over volume, pastry professionals can forge a new path for a sustainable, socially responsible pastry industry. One remarkable dessert at a time, they can drive progress.

(This article appeared in the Spring 2024 issue of Pastry Arts Magazine)