Sweet Partners

Korean-French Bakeries and Patisseries are Having a Moment

by Eunji Lee

I was born in Busan, South Korea and raised by parents who often took me to galleries and museums. When they took me to parks, other children would be playing games and running; I would be sketching. I loved to create; I just didn’t yet know how I would create. My parents had a lot of artist friends, so I grew up in that environment. In my childhood photos, I was working with ceramics or origami, making something with my hands. When I saw pastry chefs making beautiful cakes and desserts, I realized they were making edible art. But by the time I was 17, I wrote a list of career plans for my parents that included becoming a pastry chef.

I was thinking about training in Japan because it’s closer to Korea, but France seemed like a dreamy place to me because of the history of bakery and bread. I moved to France at 18 and I grew up with their amazing food scene. I learned great French technique: piping skills, laminating, ganache, everything from the classic to plating desserts. Most important, the technique had to be consistent. In France I got to work with great chefs such as William Ledeuil, Alain Ducasse and Cedric Grolet. I stayed for 11 years.

When I needed a new challenge, I moved to New York in 2016 to lead the dessert program at Jungsik, a Michelin-starred restaurant. Life in New York is fast, even more than in Paris, but New York has a great art scene and culinary scene that is hard to match anywhere. In 2022, I fulfilled a dream of opening my own pastry shop when I opened Lysée in the city’s Flatiron District. Lysee represents the culmination of my many influences: Korean heritage, French technique, high art and New York energy.

At Lysée, I wanted to create a gallery-like experience, more than what you’d find in a regular pastry shop. Upstairs, our desserts are displayed like museum pieces. Sometimes, especially with curious children, the temptation is too great, and a little hand reaches out to sample the art.

At Lysée, we serve desserts that take days to make. Our signature corn dessert, for example, involves three days of meticulous preparation and up to nine components. The desserts are not just sweets; they are stories, told through flavor, texture and form.

I always want to incorporate Korean ingredients into French techniques, whether I’m using green tea, yuja. So rather than use classic French ingredients, I am always thinking how to incorporate ingredients that reflect my identity. Sometimes French pastry can be a little bit heavier. Some Korean ingredients can cut the richness from the butter by using a lot of different types of fruits, spices or other ingredients. I think customers want the indulgence of dessert, but they also want to find healthier ways to indulge, so the match of bold Korean flavors and classic French technique makes a lot of sense. We offer a Yuja Pound Cake; Daechu Madeleines with daechu (Korean jujube cream); and a Pear-Yuja Tart with Korean pear, and yuja.

But Lysée is not alone. The idea for French-Korean bakeries goes all the way back to the late-80s, when Paris Baguette began opening stores throughout South Korea. Hur Young-in thought he had a good idea when he opened the first one. Now he has more than 4,000 locations around the world.

Many Korean pastry chefs brought their training from France to establishments in Seoul such as Patisserie Jaein and Patisserie Armoni. Customers can try burdock millefeuille and madeleines with soy sauce or sweet potato cookies with ganache from stir-fried soybean paste and caramel.

Chef Kyu Sung-choi started with me in 2006, worked with the great French chef Pierre Herme and later helmed Patisserie Mur, the ceremonial pastry boutique in France.

Korean-French bakeries are having a moment in the U.S., too. Americans, especially New Yorkers, are always chasing the next big thing in food. Right now, that next thing is the elegant, inventive fusion of Korean and French baking. It’s a movement that blends the precision and refinement of French pastry with the bold flavors and ingredients of Korean cuisine. Think black sesame, yuji and even soy sauce in cookies.

Near Lysee, I can go to Oiji Mi, a Korean fine dining restaurant that uses many French techniques.

One of the biggest players in this space is Tous les Jours, a Korean-French bakery chain owned by CJ Foodville. With more than 160 locations already in the U.S., Tous les Jours has plans to expand to 1,000 stores by 2030. To support this growth, CJ Foodville is building a massive production facility in Georgia, which will supply ingredients and products to its U.S. locations. This kind of investment shows just how much confidence there is in the future of Korean-French baking in America.

So why is this style of baking resonating so deeply with American consumers? Part of it is the visual appeal. Korean-French pastries are often stunning, with intricate designs and vibrant colors that make them perfect for social media. But it’s more than just looks. These desserts offer a balance of flavors that are both familiar and new. They’re sweet, but not cloying. They’re rich, but often incorporate lighter textures and unexpected ingredients like matcha, injeolmi (roasted soybean powder) or jujube.

Through K-pop, K-dramas and cinema, Korean culture has become increasingly popular. Food is a natural extension of that interest. When people fall in love with Korean music or film, they often become curious about the food they see on-screen. And bakeries are an accessible entry point.

As a Korean chef working in the U.S., I’m proud to be part of this wave and to collaborate with other Korean chefs and restaurants in town. At Lysée, we use local New York ingredients, French techniques and Korean flavors to create something uniquely our own. We offer not just desserts, but a full experience complete with curated tea and wine pairings, seasonal tasting menus and collaborations with chefs from around the world. Our goal is to offer something that feels both comforting and completely new.

Looking ahead, I see even more potential for growth. I dream of expanding into other kinds of bakeries and cafes; perhaps a more casual concept that still carries the spirit of Lysée but is designed for everyday enjoyment.

As long as we continue to innovate and stay true to our roots, I believe this movement will only grow stronger.

Photos Courtesy of Lysee

(This article appeared in the Winter 30 issue of Pastry Arts Magazine)