Designer Fruit by AnnMarie Mattila

Would you pay $400 for a pineapple? No, it’s not inflation—it’s the price you could actually pay for the Rubyglow hybrid. While spending hundreds of dollars on one single fruit may seem outrageous, there is actually a wide range of artisanal and luxury produce hitting the market at various price points. And given their rise in popularity, the trend appears ripe for the picking for chefs and consumers alike.

Getting your hands on the red-shelled Rubyglow may be practically impossible at the moment, since only 3,000 pineapples were produced in 2024. But accord Pou, Global Head of Corporate Communications at Fresh Del Monte, the waitlist proves ther serious demand from consum that “wield significant spending power and value luxury novelty items.” And several brands and breeds are cropping up to take advantage of that market.

The Omakase strawberry fro Oishii is one such fruit. The sw berry, which hails from the Ja Alps, is now grown in the Unite States in indoor vertical farms year round. It is the brainchild of CEO and co-founder Hiroki Koga, who wanted to bring the love of high-end fruit to his adopted new home. In just a few short years, the idea went from a dream to a reality, with the delicate berries being sold at retailers such as Whole Foods and Fresh Direct.

But the berry first made its sweet debut in professional kitchens. “Part of the strategy was earning validation from people within the food community have a lot of respect, and typically Michelin-starred ” says Melissa Cohn, Brand tor for Oishii. Introducing York to the berry first [the berry] validation as the f the best. And soon, Chef’s Table at Brooklyn Fare became the Michelin-starred restaurant to feature the berry, followed by Masa, Atera, and more.

While featuring the berry alone sensory experience all its Omakase and Oishii’s newest strawberry release, the Koyo, have been featured in several collaborations. “We explain the flavor notes, the texture notes, the sweetness level, so that [the chefs] can decide what their recipe is and which berry they prefer,” Cohn explains. But then, it’s all on the creativity and expertise of the chefs to create what they wish

Just in New York alone, recent collaborations spanned from the Musket Room’s pistachio macaron ice cream sandwich with Omakase to Win Son Bakery’s berry- flavored bolo bao. And Lafayette took advantage of the company’s mission to avoid food waste by freezing berries and turning them into puree. The result was the Oui Love for Valentine’s Day, a twist on their viral croissant featuring a yuzu crème and berry compote filling, topped with a thick glaze and fresh Koyo berries.

But you can also find designer fruits at lower price points, too. Head to your local supermarket, and you’ll find the likes of Sumo Citrus from January to April. First developed in Japan in the 1970s to be the “perfect citrus fruit,” it is a hybrid of mandarin, satsuma and an orange. The top-knot fruit is known for its large size, sweet taste and easy-to-peel skin and has made a splash stateside in the last few years.

While Sumo Citrus is marketed primarily directly to consumers, the brand does recipe development to highlight its potential in desserts, too. From churros to carrot cake to mini pavlovas, the brand works with collaborators to highlight the features of a specialized product. Given the consistency in taste and a naturally sweet flavor, it can be enticing for chefs to incorporate the fruit and taut the uniqueness on their menus.

And Sumo isn’t alone in this approach to separating itself from others in the produce market. Cosmic Crisp apples tapped popular pastry chef Erin Jeanne McDowell to highlight the texture and flavor with recipes and a campaign to gain notoriety. Even the more ubiquitous brand, Driscoll’s, has a line of specialty berries that are available across the country. You can now find yellow Tropical Bliss strawberries next to pink Rosé raspberries.

Working with chefs provides validation and awareness to new and expanding brands, but it also allows chefs to explore their creativity. It’s undoubtedly a win-win proposition in the race to stand out in increasingly saturated markets. Plus, regardless of price point, these fruits aren’t just about satisfying hunger; they’re about delighting the senses, showcasing innovation and elevating dishes to new levels. And that shift opens up a whole new world of possibilities.

(This article appeared in the Spring 2025 issue of Pastry Arts Magazine)