(This recipe technique appeared in the Winter 2023 issue of Pastry Arts Magazine)
Executive Pastry Chef, Halcyon Hotel
@sweetsaura
My love for pie goes back to when I was a little girl, just hanging out with my Grandmother at her house in Arizona. She made me a homemade peach pie using peaches she grew in her backyard – a flakey, buttery crust that encased the most ripe and delicious peach filling, with just a hint of cinnamon. I was so enamored with this pie that I asked for a pie instead of a birthday cake for several years afterwards. Since then, my love for pie has grown, and I’ve even written two cookbooks celebrating sweet and savory pies, both traditional and non-traditional. As a pastry chef, I’m always trying to elevate a humble dessert, and that is where my pie pop dessert originated. I’ve made several different flavors, but my all-time favorite has been the Apple Pie Pop. It’s a mascarpone mousse pop with a spiced apple insert. It’s dipped in a Valrhona OPALYS White Chocolate coating and a spiced oatmeal crumble. The pop sits on a bed of miso apple butter and is garnished with a quintessential lattice tuile.
Apple Insert
- 227 g white wine
- 7 whole cloves
- 1 cinnamon stick
- 2 green apples
- Squeeze of lemon juice
- 28 g unsalted butter
- 50 g granulated sugar
- 2 gelatin sheets, bloomed
- Heat the white wine with the cloves and cinnamon stick and allow to infuse for 15 minutes.
- Peel and core the apples [1], then dice them into ¼ʺ (0.6 cm) pieces. Squeeze lemon juice over them and toss to coat [2].
- Add the butter to a hot pan and toss in the apples. Add the sugar and stir. Caramelize the apples and sugar over high heat [3], then add strained spiced white wine to deglaze [4]. Continue to cook on medium heat for about 5 minutes. Remove from heat, stir in the drained gelatin. Pour the mixture into a half hotel pan lined with plastic wrap and freeze until set [5].
Mascarpone Mousse
- 10 gelatin sheets
- 700 g heavy cream, divided
- 630 g mascarpone
- 150 g granulated sugar
- Bloom the gelatin in ice water, set aside.
- Heat 200 g of the cream in a small saucepot.
- Whip the remaining 500 g cream to soft peaks. When the cream is warm, add the drained gelatin and stir until fully dissolved. Pour over the mascarpone [6] and mix until smooth [7]. Fold into whipped cream and transfer to a piping bag.
- Once the apple gelée is set, cut into rectangles about 1ʺ x 2ʺ (2.54 cm x 5 cm) [8]. In a popsicle mold, pipe a layer of mascarpone mousse, then stick gelée in the center. Add a popsicle stick over the gelée [9] and top the mold off with mascarpone mousse. Use an offset to smooth it out. Freeze 8 hours or overnight.
Oatmeal Crumble
- 215 g unsalted butter, cold
- 100 g brown sugar
- 75 g rolled oats (not instant)
- 100 g all-purpose flour
- 5 g salt
- 4 g cinnamon
- ½ tsp cardamom
- ½ tsp allspice
Combine all ingredients in a Robot Coupe and pulse until crumbly. Pour onto a sheet tray lined with parchment paper [10] and bake at 350˚F (177˚C) for 12 minutes [11]. Set aside to cool down, then store in an airtight container until needed.
Apple Miso Butter
- 454 g green apples
- 55 g apple cider vinegar
- 113 g water
- 150 g granulated sugar
- ¼ tsp ground cinnamon
- Zest and juice 1 lemon
- 51 g white miso paste
- Remove stems from apples and core them. Place the cored apples along with the rest of the ingredients in a large saucepot. Heat on high and cook until most of the liquid has cooked down and the apples are cooked through.
- Transfer to blender and process on high until very smooth [12]. Set aside to cool down and then store in an airtight container until needed.
Lattice Tuile
- 226 g unsalted butter, cold, cubed
- 335 g all-purpose flour
- 15 g granulated sugar
- 3 g salt
- 4-5 Tbs ice water
- 1 egg yolk mixed with 1 Tbs milk, for egg wash
- Combine butter, flour, sugar, and salt in a Robot Coupe and pulse 3 or 4 times to begin to cut the butter into the flour. Add 1 Tbs of the water at a time and continue to pulse until flour is hydrated and crumbly.
- Transfer the dough onto a clean work surface and form into a disk. Wrap in plastic wrap and chill for 30 minutes.
- Cut off a section of dough and roll to 1/8” (3.17 mm) thickness [13]. Use a lattice cutter to roll over the dough [14], then separate the cuts with your hands [15]. Punch circles out of the lattice [16] and place on a prepared sheet tray lined with parchment paper. Brush the lattice with egg wash and bake at 350˚F (177˚C) for 10-15 minutes, or until golden brown. Set tuiles aside until needed.
White Chocolate Shell
- 600 g Valrhona OPALYS White Chocolate
- 180 g grapeseed oil
- Melt the white chocolate over a double boiler. Once melted, remove from heat and stir in the grapeseed oil until combined [17]. Pour into a quart container and place a digital thermometer inside. The working temperature is between 85-95˚F (29-35˚C).
- Once the white chocolate is at the correct working temperature, dip the frozen pops in it. Sprinkle over oatmeal crumble [18] and place on a sheet tray lined with parchment paper. Continue to do so with remaining pops.
Plating
- Spoon some Apple Miso Butter on the bottom of a plate. Top with an Apple Pie Pop, and garnish with the Lattice Tuile.
Photos by Chad Chisholm (foodphotographerchad.com)
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