The Inner Architecture of Dessert

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By Michael Laiskonis

Living in the concrete jungle of New York City, I think a lot about architecture. I’m fascinated by the juxtaposition of various styles, shapes and sizes — sometimes even more than the individual structures themselves. It’s only natural then that I consider structure and design when it comes to building out a dessert.

When I think about architecture, I don’t necessarily mean creating a dessert that looks like a building, nor am I channeling the gravity-defying plated dessert creations of the 1990s, complex constructions of geometrical shapes and sky-high garnishes. Ask an architect to define their craft, and one might find a distinction between the physical design and the ‘inner workings’ of a structure. In more philosophical terms, architecture might best be defined by how we – people – navigate and interact with a space.

Applying this lofty idea to the craft of a pastry chef is not a radical idea. When we thoughtfully layer flavors and textures, we invite our guests to explore the inner architecture of a dessert’s composition. While in the ideation phase of creating a plated dessert, entremets, bonbon – whatever it may be – I’m always thinking of this as how ‘well’ a dessert ‘eats’, or, how the various elements will be experienced.

Thoughtfully considering a dessert’s inner architecture calls upon the many fundamental building blocks of a successful structure: flavor, texture, balance, contrast, compliment, and often, surprise. While I try to separate these elements – the architecture of ‘taste’ – from the aesthetics and final presentation of a dish, how I choose to express an ingredient’s flavor or texture is very much linked to the form of that component. For example, if mango or raspberry is a key player in a plated dessert, how does the impact of either flavor shift when presented in the form of a soft gelée, a silky crémeux or a smooth sorbet? Chocolate can be similarly manipulated to achieve different effects, whether fashioned into a mousse, ganache, sponge, or delicate décor. I also find that the choice of service piece – whether a flat plate, a bowl, or a verrine – can influence how we experience a dessert.

Of course, we are not immune to the laws of physics. Pastry chefs do need to consider technical aspects of construction. Yet we are also liberated by tools, techniques, and ingredients to hone our skills and add complexity to our creations. I constantly think of ways to make creamy textures creamier or crunchy elements crunchier. More generally, I always strive to push toward continual refinement, whether I am working on a plated dessert fit for fine dining or a seemingly simple pastry to be consumed on-the-go.

One case study of such architectural thinking started as a twist on a simple cookie but was inspired by a classic flavor combination – Black Forest Cake. Like many chefs at the moment, I am interested in how we might elevate the humble cookie in new ways, without losing its nostalgic essence. Often the solution is architectural – flipping the context with impactful embellishments. Born out of a creative collaboration with Guittard as an exercise to pair chocolate and fruit, the foundation for my refined cookie is a tender, buttery cocoa sable. Sour Morello Cherry plays a foil to the rich chocolate flavors, but in two expressions – a caramel-enhanced ganache and a more cherry-forward pâte de fruit. The soft, creamy element of the classic Black Forest Cake – whipped cream – is reimagined here as a more stable vanilla-flecked marshmallow, a textural contrast that also encases the inner components as a hidden surprise. The result: a familiar pairing of flavors with maximum complexity in two bites (or less) that respects the cookie’s portable and utilitarian nature.

No matter the preparation at hand, I challenge all pastry chefs not only to build sweet compositions that are beautiful to look at, but always to consider a dessert’s inner architecture with equal thought, skill and creativity.

FORÊT NOIRE

By Michael Laiskonis,
Culinary Director, Boiron Americas

Inspired by the classic black forest gateau—chocolate, cherry, and vanilla—this bite-size snacking cookie flips the textures but retains the familiar flavor combination.

Yield: approximately 24 pieces

Cocoa Sablé

• 175 g unsalted butter, softened
• 65 g confectioners’ sugar
• 2 g salt
• 140 g cake flour
• 20 g unsweetened cocoa powder
• 2 g baking powder

1. In a food processor, process the butter, confectioners’ sugar and salt.
2. Add the cake flour and cocoa powder, mixing until thoroughly combined.
3. Pipe the mixture into a single layer within a sprayed Silpain form (30 mm diameter) and freeze.
4. Bake at 320°F (160°C) for 15-20 minutes or until thoroughly baked.

Morello Cherry Caramel Ganache

• 85 g sucrose
• 50 g glucose syrup
• Water, as needed
• 60 g heavy cream (36% fat)
• 25 g Boiron Morello Cherry purée
• 30 g 100% unsweetened chocolate
• 55 g unsalted butter, softened

1. In a saucepan, combine the sucrose and glucose with enough water to cover. Cook gently to a medium caramel.
2. Off the heat, deglaze the caramel with the cream and purée, whisking to combine. Pour over the unsweetened chocolate and allow to cool to 95°F (35°C) before stirring in the butter. Allow to fully cool to room temperature, then transfer to a pastry bag fitted with a plain tip.

Morello Cherry Pâte de Fruit

• 250 g Boiron Morello Cherry purée
• 30 g sucrose (1)
• 6 g yellow pectin
• 300 g sucrose (2)
• 75 g glucose syrup
• 3 g citric acid

1. Heat the purée in a saucepan to 104°F (40°C).
2. Whisk the first measurement of sucrose (1) with pectin into the purée. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring continually.
3. Add the remaining sucrose (2) and glucose in multiple additions; continue cooking to a final temperature of 223°F (106°C).
4. Remove from heat and stir in the citric acid.
5. Immediately pour into a prepared frame, allow to cool and set at room temperature. Cut into 10 mm discs and reserve.

Vanilla Marshmallow

• 9 g gelatin powder (225 bloom)
• 40 g water (cold) (1)
• 45 g glucose syrup (1)
• 5 g Boiron Lemon purée
• 135 g sucrose
• 50 g glucose syrup (2)
• 60 g water (2)
• 1 vanilla bean, split and scraped

1. In the bowl of a stand mixer, hydrate the gelatin with cold water (1). Add the first measurement of glucose and the lemon purée, then set aside on the mixer fitted with a whip attachment.
2. Combine the sucrose with the second measurement of glucose (2) and water (2) in a saucepan. Cook to 230°F (110°C).
3. Pour the sugar syrup over the gelatin mixture, add the vanilla pulp, and whip at high speed for approximately 5 minutes, or until the mixture reaches 80°F (26°C). Add flavor and/or color if necessary.

Assembly

• Sicilian pistachios, as needed

1. Pipe a small amount of Morello Cherry Caramel Ganache onto each Cocoa Sablé base, then top with a disc of the pâte de fruit.
2. Quickly pipe a mound of the Vanilla Marshmallow onto each cookie and allow to set.
3. Garnish with Sicilian pistachio pieces.

All photo credits to : Audrey Ma

(This article appeared in the Spring 2024 issue of Pastry Arts Magazine)