Reinventing the Classics

by Robert Wemischner

Sponsored by 

When asking Mathias Boirie, executive pastry chef at the Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills, what motivates him, he would say: “My goal is to create happiness through pastry.” Along with his small, but well-focused, team producing sweets for all the hotel’s dining venues, Boirie has been doing just that. He is guided by seasonality and hyperlocality maximizing the usage of Southern California’s agricultural bounty. With more than 20 years of pastry experience working in France and England, Boirie says in his no-nonsense way, “I wish to reinvent the classics, and I also try not to overthink.”  In his sweets array at the five-star luxury property, he is bringing some of the deluxe beachy environment of St. Tropez, where he spent a number of his formative years perfecting the Tarte Tropezienne, a pastry cream filled brioche, the signature dessert of the pastry shop where he became Head Pastry Chef. 

What’s the secret to many of his most memorable desserts? He answers: “Using great vanilla in a sweet context is like adding salt and pepper to a dish. It is that fundamental and that important.” Adding that all-important, hauntingly delicious flavor of vanilla, he has upped the ante on cheesecake and added his own Gallic touches to an all-American classic. When describing this dessert, he elaborates: ‘The 3-Bean Blend vanilla paste from Tahitian Gold finds its way into many of my desserts, acting as an anchoring flavor note in everything from Vanilla Cheesecake to fruit tarts and ice creams.” He continues: “I also love the combination of sweet and salty and often reach for Tahitian Gold’s Vanilla Fleur de Sel (sea salt) for a finishing touch on some of my desserts to bring our sweets to the next level.” At the hotel’s Rooftop, a premier and justifiably popular outdoor dining space for locals and visitors alike, Boirie’s imprint is evident in desserts that are frequently served in small, shareable bites at the table, as guests enjoy the twinkling lights and view of the hills beyond.

Not content to rest on his laurels, Boirie who doesn’t like “being bored,” in his words, rises to the challenge of changing the dessert menu three times a year, taking advantage of each season’s special produce for inspiration. “There is always something seasonally appropriate, something chocolate and vegan to appeal to the widest possible audience,” he says proudly. High profile events with equally high-profile guests, including weddings and some convention business, keep his in-house production humming all year round. 

“I characterize my philosophy of dessert in two words: pure and modern,” he explains. Perhaps “nuanced” and “perfect” might be added to his short list of descriptors. Drawing on inspiration from the master Pierre Hermé, longtime Parisian pastry chef and big-time rooter for pastry chefs everywhere, Boirie expresses his appreciation to this pastry chef’s pastry chef in this way: “Pierre Hermé has had the platform to help other pastry chefs ascend to the culinary firmament. We too can be stars in our own right, no longer subordinate to, or somehow less than, the savory chefs of the world.” With his unique and deft touch, Hermé has enshrined many of the most favored combinations of flavors in his world-famous desserts. In one of them, his iconic tarte called “Infiniment Vanille,” he has a shortbread crust with a very rich, dense filling of white-chocolate ganache flavored with vanilla and mascarpone cream, and also flavored with vanilla. In his signature and most popular dessert at the hotel, Boirie perhaps subliminally nods to Hermé’s example. Whatever its inspiration, vanilla plays an important part. This creamy concoction boasts a heavy dose of 3-Bean Blend Whole Vanilla Bean Paste and at its base there is a Sable Breton cookie which reinforces the vanilla flavor with its use of ground vanilla beans of Papua New Guinea.

In an important nod to uplifting pastry chefs everywhere, Boirie has founded a networking organization called Pastry Chef Table, which features meet-ups of pastry chefs in LA, San Francisco, Las Vegas and beyond. At these events, pastry chefs can display their latest creations for the delectation of attendees within the industry who are determined to stay current and expand their skill sets using the best methods and ingredients available. “These events, sponsored by companies like Tahitian Gold and Felchlin, provide opportunities for sharing ideas and staying connected to the larger pastry community,” Boirie explains. We can all learn from one another to move the art forward. The more you learn; the more you love this field of passion and skill.” Truer words were never spoken and are reflected in this pastry chef’s impressive array of delicacies. Cream and crunch, with just the right amount of sweetness, are definitely on the menu at this nexus of hospitality located at the convergence of LA’s world-famous Beverly Hills, where nothing but the best is expected—and delivered. 

For more information about Tahitian Gold’s premium vanilla products and how they can elevate your pastry creations, please contact Noa at [email protected] or call 310 465 0856.

Vanilla Cheesecake

By Mathias Boirie, Executive Pastry Chef, Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills

A flourish of strawberry confit adds a pop of color and freshness to Chef Mathias’s creamy white chocolate cheesecake. His classic Sablé Breton adds texture and balance, taking this deceptively simple dessert into the realm of the sublime.

Sable Breton

• 160 g egg yolks
• 320 g granulated sugar
• 320 g butter, room temperature
• 450 g all-purpose flour
• 30 g baking powder
• 5 g salt
• 5 g Tahitian Gold Ground Vanilla Beans, Papua New Guinea

Total: 1290 g

1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the yolks and sugar until light.
2. Add the room-temperature butter.
3. Scrape the bowl and continue to whip.
4. Switch to the paddle attachment, then add all of the sifted dry ingredients at once.
5. Mix until well combined.
6. Roll out the dough using a sheeter set at 3.
7. Cut rounds of dough slightly larger than the cheesecake molds, chilling the dough if it is hard to work with.
8. Bake at 330°F (166°C) inside a ring the same size as the dough round until lightly browned.

White Chocolate Cheesecake Mix

• 750 g cream cheese, room temperature
• 200 g granulated sugar
• 20 g cornstarch
• 200 g sour cream
• 100 g egg yolks
• 140 g whole eggs
• 20 g Tahitian Gold Whole Vanilla Bean Paste, 3-Bean Blend
• 220 g white chocolate
• 200 g cream, 36% fat

Total: 1850 g

1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle, beat the cream cheese until light and smooth.
2. Whisk together the sugar and cornstarch, then add them to cream cheese.
3. Scrape the bowl well, then add the sour cream.
4. Add the yolks, eggs and vanilla paste a little at a time, scraping several times to avoid lumps.
5. Boil the cream and pour over the white chocolate. Blend to emulsify.
6. Mix into the cream cheese mixture.
7. Pipe the cheesecake into 6-inch (15.24 cm) silicon molds
8. Bake at 220°F (104°C) for 1 hour and 50 minutes, using a water bath.

Strawberry Confit

• 2000 g strawberry puree
• 15 g Tahitian Gold Whole Vanilla Bean Paste, 3-Bean Blend
• 1 g salt
• 25 g agar agar
• 50 g granulated sugar

Total: 2091 g

1. Bring the strawberry puree, vanilla paste and salt to a boil. 
2. Mix the agar agar and sugar in a bowl. 
3. Add the sugar mixture to the pot, whisking to combine thoroughly.  
4. Bring to a boil and cook, stirring constantly, for 3 minutes.
5. Pour into a shallow container and reserve in the refrigerator until set.
6. Blend the set confit in a blender or food processor until completely smooth, pushing through a strainer if necessary.

Assembly

1. Place a desired stencil flat onto the dessert plate.
2. Spread an even layer of the Strawberry Confit over the stencil using a small offset spatula.
3. Gently remove the stencil.
4. Place the sablé on top, aligning it with one side of the gel application.
5. Position the vanilla cheesecake on top of the sablé.
6. Finally, add the pulled Isomalt sugar decoration to enhance height and add elegance to the dessert, as desired.

Photos by Cyrano

(This article appeared in the Spring 2025 issue of Pastry Arts Magazine)