François Daubinet: On Butter, Craftsmanship & the Poetry of Pastry

By Anne-Gaelle Moreau

Sponsored by

There are pastry chefs who master technique, and then there are those who turn technique into emotion. François Daubinet belongs firmly to the latter. Known for his graphic aesthetic, his sensitivity to ingredients and his ability to elevate tradition without losing its soul, he offers a profoundly modern vision of French pastry. In this conversation, he opens up about the essence of butter, the renaissance of flan and the rising world of savory Viennoiseries, all while explaining the thought process behind his creations.

The Foundations of Craft

What place does butter hold in your pastry work?

Butter is a cornerstone of my pastry expression. It is a living, noble ingredient that lends not only texture and flavor but also emotion. In every puff pastry, every dough, every cream, it acts as a link between technique and sensitivity. It tells a story that is authentic, generous and profoundly French.

How do you define truly exceptional puff pastry?

Good puff pastry is an architectural marvel. It must be even and crisp on the outside, and tender on the inside. The layers should separate without crumbling, like a well-played musical score. It should have that airy lightness, the warm, comforting aroma of butter, and a clean, satisfying crunch.

What butter do you use for your work?

Elle & Vire is a brand I deeply respect for its high standards, consistency, strong roots in the terroir of France and capacity to innovate. They offer butter of remarkable quality, with firm texture, high fat content and perfect plasticity for lamination. It respects the pastry chef’s technique and takes recipes to the next level.

On Trends & Creative Identity

How do you relate to pastry trends?

Trends are interesting when they serve as a source of creative momentum, not as a constraint. I observe them, I sense them and sometimes I draw inspiration from them, but not always. I prefer to put forward a vision, a more personal and artistic interpretation. That allows me to remain genuine while still being in tune with my time.

How do you view the savory viennoiserie trend?

I love this trend. It allows us to explore a different register and to play with the seasons and market-fresh ingredients. Savory Viennoiseries create a connection between baked goods, gastronomy, and high-end snacking.

Describe your savory Viennoiserie concept.

I imagined a laminated viennoiserie as a simple, delicious sandwich—something reminiscent of the classic French ham and butter on baguette, but with a more architectural touch. A play of textures between crisp, melting, and soft. Here, the laminated butter lends contrasting richness that perfectly balances the whole.

What inspired your creative approach?

I started from the desire to shake up snacking habits. The idea was to translate the richness of a croissant into more of an on-the-go finger food, with a visually appealing presentation.

Any tips for pastry chefs exploring this category?

Work the dough meticulously, respect the resting times, and above all, be generous with the filling. A savory viennoiserie should be just as decadent as its sweet counterpart.

The Flan Renaissance

What draws you to the current flan trend?

Flan is a return to the roots. It’s a childhood dessert, popular, yet deserving of a contemporary reinterpretation. It resonates across all generations. Its reinvention reflects today’s need for comfort and for simplicity taken to the next level. There is true poetry in a well-executed flan.

Tell us about your famous flan?

I wanted to create a flan that is both rustic and refined, where the laminated dough plays a central role. It is a crème brûlée–style flan, intensely infused with a blend of Madagascar vanilla and tonka bean. The baking time is prolonged to achieve deep caramelization around the edges, and finally, a touch of caramelized brown sugar is added as an allusion to a traditional crème brûlée.

What guided your reinterpretation?

I started from a sensory memory: the fragrance of a flan just out of the oven in a neighborhood bakery. I wanted to bring it into my own universe; more graphic, more textured, more contrasted. The idea was to elevate a classic without distorting it, infusing it with rigorous craftsmanship and a refined, minimalist aesthetic.

Any advice for creating a great flan?

Take your time. A good flan should never be rushed. Allow the vanilla and tonka bean to infuse properly, let the custard rest, and supervise the baking carefully. Above all, enjoy the flan at room temperature so that the aromas and flavors can truly express themselves.

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Elle & Vire Professionnel®embodies the very best of French dairy craftsmanship since 1945. From this know-how an exceptional butter was born. For more information and recipes visit www.valrhona.us/elle-vire-butter

Vanilla-Tonka Bean Crème Brûlée Style Flan

By François Daubinet

Flan is a return to our roots. It’s a childhood dessert deserving of a contemporary reinterpretation. It resonates across all generations. Its reinvention reflects a need for comfort and for simplicity taken to the next level. There is true poetry in a well-executed flan.

Croissant Dough

• 960 g T45 flour
• 960 g T55 flour
• 35 g fine salt
• 230 g super-fine granulated sugar
• 190 g Elle & Vire® Unsalted Butter, cubed
• 1 tonka bean, grated
• 990 g whole milk, cold
• 75 g fresh yeast
• 1000 g Elle & Vire Professionnel® Extra Dry Butter Sheet (for lamination)

Total weight: 3440 g

1. Weigh the two types of flour, salt, sugar and butter into the bowl of a stand mixer.
2. Combine the grated tonka bean with the milk and add this to the bowl along with the fresh yeast.
3. Knead with the dough hook for 5 minutes on speed 1, then for 6 minutes on speed 2.
4. Transfer the dough to a bowl, let it rest (bulk fermentation) for 20 minutes at room temperature.
5. Give the dough one turn.
6. Divide the dough into one 3-kilogram portion and one 400-gram portion.
7. Shape each portion into a rectangle, then wrap them and transfer to a sheet tray.
8. Freeze for 1 hour, then refrigerate until the following day.
9. The next day, incorporate the butter and laminate the dough (give it one double turn, followed by one single turn.
10. Transfer the dough to the freezer and allow it to rest for 30 minutes.
11. Roll out to a thickness of 1 cm, cut the desired shapes, then freeze.

Vanilla-Tonka Bean Pastry Cream

• 1000 g whole milk
• 2 Madagascar vanilla beans
• 1 g powdered cinnamon
• 1 tonka bean, grated
• 100 g light brown cane sugar
• 54 g super-fine granulated sugar
• 65 g cornstarch
• 200 g whole eggs
• 80 g Elle & Vire® Unsalted Butter, cubed

Total weight: 1500 g

1. Prepare a pastry cream with all the ingredients except the butter.
2. After cooking, remove from the heat, and add the butter.
3. Emulsify the pastry cream with an immersion blender, then cool rapidly.
4. Refrigerate until ready for assembly.

Assembly and Baking

1. Place strips of croissant dough in loaf pans, then proof.
2. Bake at 340°F (170°C) for 17 minutes.
3. Allow to cool, then remove from the molds.
4. Stir the pastry cream until smooth, then transfer it to a piping bag.
5. Fill the cavity with the pastry cream and smooth the surface.
6. Return to the oven for a few minutes.
7. Once cooled, dust with brown sugar and caramelize with a blowtorch.

(This article appeared in the Spring 31 issue of Pastry Arts Magazine)