Following the Rulls

By Robert Wemischner

Sponsored by

Ask pastry chef Christophe Rull to speak about what motivates him in his business and he will answer “the key is to do simplicity well.” With his intense focus, more than 20-year background, and the wish to bring something special to the community, he has been doing just that, leaning into the philosophy that great ingredients and classical techniques can lead to outstanding results. That knowing glint in his eye says it all. Focusing intensely for now on a manageable line of Viennoiserie, quiche, crêpes, cookies and in-house-made cracklingly crisp baguettes, Rull is realizing his long-held dream at his newly opened eponymous patisserie in San Marcos, CA, northeast of San Diego. Partnering with his wife Wilma who handles the business side of things, Chef Rull is the indefatigable creative engine of the operation. He says, with a smile, “For me, after we sell out each day, there is a special feeling taking pride in carefully filling our display cases with new products from hazelnut swirls and vanilla-scented shortbread to desserts in a glass (chia pudding, for example).”

Since opening his shop, he has doubled the seating capacity, filling those French bistro-style chairs with a strong contingent of intensely loyal patrons, many of whom return multiple times during the week getting their fix of breakfast and lunch: early in the day, a selection of buttery Viennoiserie and coffee; and at lunch, a quiche and a salad or pesto chicken on a freshly baked croissant, just to name a couple of the favorites.

As part of his commitment to top quality ingredients, he raves about the various forms of vanilla that he incorporates seamlessly into his baked goods. Whether he is using the 3-Bean Blend Paste, a versatile vanilla paste made from a blend of select vanilla beans for deep, balanced flavor, or ground vanilla beans, which incorporate the entire vanilla pod to deliver fuller flavor and aroma, he insists: “I can almost taste the passion that goes into producing these products. I even love to use the ground vanilla beans in a house-made granola or Nutella cruffin that are both worth waking up for.”

With stints at five-star hotels in Las Vegas, Bel Air, and Carlsbad, CA, Rull has drawn upon his training in France, where he served as an assistant teacher at the École Nationale Supérieure de Pâtisserie in Yssingeaux, a school owned by Alain Ducasse. He also worked for Chef Marc Veyrat, among others. “But I also grew up in a family of professional and home cooks,” he says, “so I guess it was my destiny to continue in my family members’ footsteps.” 

Outgoing in nature, Rull takes pride in offering a friendly, homey environment for customers. “I want to make sure everyone feels welcome in our shop,” he explains. “I am focusing as well on achieving consistency in our product line, which involves training the ‘rock stars’ on our team. In the longer term, I hope to open a pastry school, sharing my pastry knowledge with the community, and add a handcrafted array of bonbons to the mix. The sky’s the limit, but we need to be smart when expanding our offerings. I want to take my time and make things right.” It seems like he and his wife are doing just that, refreshing the classics and gaining positive feedback from the diverse community surrounding the shop. The line outside the door is growing. 

For Mother’s Day and beyond, Rull’s dessert here screams fruity, creamy and nutty. Encompassing all of that, Strawberry Pistachio Cheesecake is a dessert for all seasons and all reasons. Based on the perennially loved New York-style cheesecake, Rull’s rendition, enhanced by touches of pink and green, features locally grown strawberries whose flavor is intensified by a thin coating of Valrhona’s Strawberry Inspiration Fruit Couverture and a house-made pistachio gianduja. Here’s a fashionable take on an old classic. 

Photos by Anastasiia Gaines

Strawberry Pistachio Cheesecake

By Christophe Rull

Yield: 12 servings, 3”x 2” rings

Graham Cracker Crust

• 210 g graham cracker crumbs
• 50 g granulated sugar
• ¼ tsp cinnamon
• ¼ tsp Tahitian Gold Ground Vanilla Beans, Madagascar
• 100 g unsalted butter, melted

1. Grease the metal rings.
2. Mix the graham crumbs with the sugar and cinnamon.
3. Combine the vanilla and melted butter and add to the crumb mixture. 
4. Deposit 30 g of the crust mixture into each ring and press firmly.
5. Bake at 325°F (160°C) for 10 minutes.
6. Cool fully before adding the cheesecake batter to the rings.

Cheesecake Batter

• 475 g cream cheese, softened
• 210 g confectioner’s sugar
• 1 tablespoon 3-Bean Blend Whole Vanilla Bean Paste, Tahitian Gold 
• 590 g crème fraîche
• 105 g whole eggs (about 2 large eggs)
• 20 g egg yolk (about 1 yolk)
• 33 g milk

1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the cream cheese until smooth.
2. Add sugar and vanilla, mixing on low speed.
3. Gradually add the crème fraîche and scrape the bowl.
4. Slowly add the eggs and yolk.
5. Finish with the milk. 
6. Deposit 120 g of the mixture into each ring.
7. Bake at 300°F (149°C) for about 20 minutes.
   When done, the top should be somewhat firm, and the center should have a slight jiggle.
8. Allow the baked cheesecakes to cool completely before freezing in the rings.

Freezing & Unmolding

1. Transfer the cheesecakes to the freezer and freeze until completely solid.
2. Once frozen, gently unmold by warming the rings with a blowtorch.
3. Return the unmolded cheesecakes to the freezer.

Dipping Glaze

• 200 g Valrhona Strawberry Inspiration Fruit Couverture
• 200 g cocoa butter
• 100 g ground pistachios

1. Melt the chocolate and cocoa butter together.
2. Stir in the ground pistachios until the mixture is smooth.
3. Warm the glaze to dipping temperature 86°F (30°C).
4. Dip the frozen cheesecakes, ensuring a thin, even coat.
5. Let set in the refrigerator.

Gianduja Pistachio Cream

• 100 g granulated sugar
• 100 g pistachios
• 20 g white chocolate, melted
• whipped cream as needed (see note in assembly) 

1. Caramelize the sugar with the pistachios.
2. Allow to cool.
3. Grind the caramelized nuts into a smooth paste.
4. Mix in the melted white chocolate until combined.
5. Allow to cool. 

Assembly

• Fresh strawberry slices, as needed

1. Spread a thin layer of gianduja on top of each cheesecake. 
2. Weigh out the remaining gianduja and fold in an equal amount of whipped cream. 
3. Decorate half of the top of each cheesecake by piping some of the gianduja-whipped cream mixture on top of the cheesecake.
4. Place fresh strawberry slices decoratively on the other half. (See photographs)
5. Serve chilled.

(This article appeared in the Spring 31 issue of Pastry Arts Magazine)