Pastry Chef, Dirt Candy, NYC
At Dirt Candy, every course – even dessert — highlights vegetables. For me, as a pastry chef, this means exploring flavors rarely seen on the sweet side of the menu. Onions in dessert can be challenging, so I chose to present them in a familiar, approachable format: an ice cream sandwich.
Yield: 12 sandwiches
Caramelized Onions
- 1 medium sweet onion
- 20 g neutral oil
- Slice the onion in a food processor.
- Heat the oil in a wide-bottomed pan over medium heat.
- Add the onion slices, reduce the heat to low, and cook slowly, stirring frequently.
- Continue until the onions are deeply caramelized and golden brown.
Sweet Onion Ice Cream
- 50 g caramelized onions
- 190 g heavy cream
- 605 g whole milk
- 26 g malted milk powder
- 16 g trimoline
- 4 g kosher salt
- 8 g vanilla paste
- 117 g granulated sugar
- 27 g glucose powder
- 7 g stabilizer
- 0.5 g guar gum
- Steep the caramelized onions in the cream and milk for at least 30 minutes.
- Strain and adjust the liquid to 795 g, if necessary.
- Bring the infused dairy to a boil.
- Add the malted milk powder and simmer for 2 minutes.
- Stir in the salt and vanilla paste.
- Whisk together the sugar, glucose powder, stabilizer, and guar gum.
- Shear the dry mixture into the hot dairy.
- Cook over medium heat to 198°F (92°C), stirring frequently.
- Strain through a fine-mesh sieve.
- Chill over an ice bath, then refrigerate overnight.
- Churn in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Raspberry Chip Cookies

- 272 g unsalted butter, softened
- 341 g light brown sugar
- 3 g kosher salt
- 34 g milk powder
- 444 g all-purpose flour
- 8 g baking soda
- 36 g vanilla extract
- 279 g whole milk
- 165 g raspberry couverture, roughly chopped
- Cream the butter, sugar, salt and milk powder until light and fluffy.
- Mix in the flour and baking soda until fully combined.
- Add the vanilla extract.
- Stream in the milk and mix until a soft dough forms.
- Fold in the couverture.
- Scoop the dough with a 56 g (2 oz) scoop onto half-sheet pans, 6 per tray.
- Bake at 325°F (163°C) for 10 minutes, rotating halfway through.
- Once cooled, punch out rounds with a 3.5-inch (9 cm) cutter.
Onion-Balsamic Soft Filling (Caramel)
- ¼ small sweet onion, roughly chopped
- 500 g heavy cream, steeped with sweated onions
- 125 g balsamic vinegar
- 0.53 g xanthan gum
- 350 g glucose powder
- 65 g brown sugar
- 10 g vanilla paste
- Pinch kosher salt
- Sweat the onion in a small amount of oil.
- Deglaze with the cream, then bring to a boil.
- Steep for 15 minutes.
- Strain through a fine-mesh sieve.
- Rewarm the cream and transfer it to a blender.
- Blend the cream with the balsamic and xanthan gum until smooth.
- Add the glucose, brown sugar, vanilla and salt. Blend until sugar dissolves.
- Chill over an ice bath.
- Transfer to a piping bag.
Raspberry Lambic Sauce
- 750 g raspberry lambic beer, divided
- 113 g granulated sugar
- 132 g raspberry purée
- Pinch kosher salt
- 15 g cornstarch
- Combine 700 g of the beer with the sugar, purée and salt in a saucepan.
- Heat to dissolve the sugar.
- Whisk the cornstarch with the remaining 50 g of the beer to form a slurry.
- Add the slurry to the mixture in the saucepan.
- Bring to a boil and cook 1 minute.
- Cool over an ice bath.
Assembly
- Pipe the churned ice cream into Silikomart® “The Ring” molds.
- Tap to settle; smooth with an offset spatula.
- Freeze until solid.
- Unmold the rings onto a flat sheet pan lined with a Silpat®.
- Fill the center cavities with the Onion–Balsamic Soft Filling.
- Freeze again until solid.
- Sandwich one ice cream ring between two cookies. Freeze before proceeding.
- Cut the sandwiches in half.
- Refreeze to firm before plating.
Plating
- Spoon 30 g (1 ounce) of the Raspberry Lambic Sauce into the bottom of a shallow bowl.
- Place half an ice cream sandwich, cut side down, on the sauce.
- Allow to temper briefly before serving.
Photos by Amanda Cohen.
(This recipe appeared in the Fall 2025 issue of Pastry Arts Magazine)



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