Summer Peach Verrine by James Matty

James Matty, Pastry Chef, Suraya

I created this verrine was created to celebrate the flavors of the Levant through a lighter, more contemporary lens, designed specifically for the spirit of a Lebanese restaurant while it still feels refined and unexpected. The dessert layers late-summer peach compote with rosemary and mastic ice cream, arak sabayon and bursts of fresh pomegranate for a balance of brightness, herbaceousness and warmth. Visiting the many amazingly hospitable bakeries in Dearborn, I became fascinated by the abundance and variety of ma’amoul and wanted to reinterpret those flavors in a more modern plated format.

Yield: 12 verrines

Wallnut Ma’amoul Mad Filling

• 500 g walnuts
• 100 g granulated sugar
• 25 g honey
• 25 g unsalted butter, melted
• 5 g salt
• 5 g cinnamon
• 5 g orange blossom water
• Simple syrup, as needed

1. Process the walnuts in a Robot Coupe® until finely ground.
2. Transfer the walnut powder to the bowl of a stand mixer, then add the remaining ingredients, reserving the simple syrup, as you may not need it.
3. Mix, using the paddle attachment, until the mixture begins to come together.
4. Test the mixture to see if it holds its shape when squeezed.
5. Add a small amount of simple syrup, if necessary, to help the mixture bind.
6. Refrigerate until needed.

Ma’amoul Mad Dough

• 0.5 g yeast
• 200 g evaporated milk
• 3 g rose water
• 33 g semolina
• 33 g all-purpose flour
• 166 g durum
• 113 g confectioner’s sugar
• 4 g salt
• 0.25 tsp mace
• 0.5 tsp mahlab
• 125 g ghee, melted and cooled

1. Combine the yeast, evaporated milk and rose water and reserve.
2. Combine the dry ingredients, add the ghee and mix until smooth.
3. Add reserved rose water mixture in 3 stages, scraping between each addition, until a smooth dough forms.
4. Rest at room temperature overnight.
5. Press half of the dough into a lined 6.5-inch x 9.5-inch pan (24.13 cm x 16.51 cm).
6. Remove and set aside.
7. Re-line the pan and press the remaining dough into the bottom of the pan.
8. Press the filling onto the dough in the pan, then top with the reserved shaped dough, pressing gently to adhere.
9. Bake at 300°F (149°C) for 15 minutes until golden brown.
10. Allow to cool, then cut into 2-inch (5 cm) squares.

Arak Sabayon

• 378 g heavy cream
• 30 g water
• 75 g granulated sugar
• 0.5 g salt
• 75 g yolks
• 10 g arak*
• 4 g cognac

1. Heat the cream, water, sugar and salt to 200°F (93°C).
2. Temper into the yolks.
3. Cook the custard to 182°F (83°C).
4. Remove from the heat and add the arak and cognac.
5. Strain, then chill in an ice bath.
6. Transfer the chilled custard into a siphon gun and charge with NO₂.
7. Refrigerate until needed.

*Arak is an anise-flavored spirit, popular in the Middle East

Peach Compote

• 200 g granulated sugar
• 3 g pectin
• Zest from one orange
• 0.33 g ground black pepper
• 3 g rosemary
• 333 g diced fresh peaches
• 82 g Grillo wine
• 66 g peach puree
• 66 g apricot puree
• 2.5 g malic acid

1. Combine the sugar, pectin, zest and pepper in a small pot.
2. Add the peaches and rosemary and toss to coat.
3. Add the wine and purées and bring to a boil.
4. Simmer for 3 minutes.
5. Remove from the heat, add the acid.
6. Chill immediately and store in the refrigerator.

Rosemary Ice Cream

• 40 g milk powder
• 3 g locust bean gum
• 150 g granulated sugar
• 1 g salt
• 780 g milk
• 192 g cream
• 60 g trimoline
• 12 g rice, toasted
• 1 g mastic, crushed
• 4 g rosemary

1. Combine the milk powder, locust bean gum, sugar and salt and set aside.
2. Warm the dairy, trimoline, rice, mastic and rosemary.
3. Whisk in the dry ingredients.
4. Cook the base to 186°F (86°C).
5. Chill the mixture, then strain it.
6. Process in an ice cream machine and store in the freezer.

Assembly

• Pomegranate seeds, as needed
• Tarragon leaves, as needed

1. In a pre-chilled 12-ounce (340 ml) sundae glass, place 3 small scoops of the Rosemary Ice Cream.
2. Top with 2 ounces (60 ml) of the Peach Compote.
3. Add a square of the Ma’amoul Mad on top.
4. Dispense the Arak Sabayon to fill the glass, about 1-2 ounces (28-56 grams).
5. Torch the top of the sabayon.
6. Garnish with pomegranate seeds and tarragon leaves.

(This recipe appeared in the Summer 32 issue of Pastry Arts Magazine)