Rhubarb and Vanilla by Miranda Kohout

Pastry Chef, Conifer Restaurant

My grandma grew rhubarb in her garden, and I look forward to it each spring. Most people only ever experience it in pie, and that is a shame. Cooking the rhubarb sous vide gives it the perfect texture – tender but not mushy – and allows you to sweeten the rhubarb slightly and add other flavors if desired. You can also color the syrup with a few drops of beet juice or grenadine if your rhubarb isn’t already a pretty pink.

Yield: 10-15 servings, depending on mold size

Rhubarb Compote

• 7 g pectin
• 174 g granulated sugar, divided
• 454 g chopped rhubarb
• 113 g water
• 142 g granulated sugar

1. Combine the pectin with 32 grams of the sugar and set aside.
2. In a large, shallow pot, bring the rhubarb, water and remaining sugar to a boil.
3. Gradually whisk the pectin mixture into the boiling rhubarb.
4. Cook, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens.
5. Transfer to a hotel pan and allow to cool slowly.
6. Once the compote has reached room temperature, pipe or portion into insert molds and freeze.
7. Reserve the remaining compote for plating.

Gluten-Free Streusel

• 155 g butter, at 65°F (18°C) (cool room temp)
• 130 g granulated sugar
• 200 g gluten-free flour blend*
• 100 g almond flour
• 2 g salt

1. Combine everything in a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and mix at medium-low speed until it comes together.
2. Spread the streusel onto a parchment-lined sheet tray and allow to rest, uncovered in the refrigerator overnight or transfer to an airtight container and freeze until needed.
3. Spread the raw streusel in an even layer on a parchment or silicone-lined sheet tray.
4. Bake at 325°F (163°C), low fan, for 25-30 minutes, stirring every 8-10 minutes until the streusel is golden-brown.
5. Cool completely.

*A ready-made gluten-free flour blend will work fine here. I like to blend my own, matching the flavor of the flour(s) with the flavor in the dessert.

Vanilla Mousse

• 12.5 g gelatin sheets
• 50 g cold water
• 225 g milk
• 50 g egg yolk
• 50 g granulated sugar
• 20 g vanilla paste
• Salt, to taste
• 700 g heavy cream

1. Cut the gelatin into small pieces with scissors and soak it in cold water, turning occasionally if necessary to ensure the gelatine hydrates evenly.
2. In a small pot, combine the milk, egg yolk and sugar and cook over medium heat until the mixture reaches 167°F-176°F (75-80°C).
3. Remove from the heat, and add the vanilla paste, salt and bloomed gelatin.
4. Transfer to a large bowl or hotel pan and cover with plastic wrap touching the surface.
5. Refrigerate until chilled. Alternatively, you may chill the mixture in an ice bath.
6. When the custard has chilled, whip the cream to soft peaks.
7. Whisk the chilled custard to loosen it, then whisk in about a quarter of the whipped cream to smooth and lighten the custard. Fold in the remaining whipped cream in two additions.
8. Fill the molds ¾ of the way with the Vanilla Mousse, insert a frozen disc of the Rhubarb Compote, then fill to within ¼-inch of the top with more mousse.
9. Gently sprinkle the baked streusel over the partially filled molds and press to level.
10. Transfer the filled molds to the freezer until solid.
11. The unmolded mousses will need 1-3 hours to thaw in the cooler before plating.

Sous Vide Rhubarb

• 200 g granulated sugar
• 200 g water
• 1 vanilla bean, halved lengthwise and cut into 1-inch pieces
• 3 strips of orange peel, pith removed
• 1 sprig fresh tarragon
• 1300 g chopped rhubarb

1. Combine all of the ingredients except the rhubarb and cook over medium heat, stirring until the sugar dissolves and the liquid barely reaches a simmer.
2. Cover and allow to rest for 20 minutes.
3. Chill the mixture until it reaches room temperature, or reserve in the refrigerator until ready to use.
4. For each small vacuum bag, add approximately ¾ cup of the chopped rhubarb and enough of the syrup to cover it completely. Any orange peel, tarragon, or pieces of vanilla bean may be left in.
5. Set an immersion circulator to 61°C (142°F) and cook the sealed bags of rhubarb for 30-32 minutes.
6. Remove the bags from the water and shock in an ice bath.
7. Leave sealed until ready to use
8. Use within three days.

Assembly

• Mint, basil, or tarragon cut chiffonade
• Rhubarb Compote

1. Place a large spoonful of the Rhubarb Compote in the center of a shallow bowl.
2. Top with a vanilla mousse.
3. Top the mousse with a generous amount of drained sous vide rhubarb pieces.
4. Finish with your herb of choice.

Photos by Miranda Kohout

(This recipe appeared in the Fall 2024 issue of Pastry Arts Magazine)