Raspberry Chocolate Crowns by Eric Bertoïa

(This recipe appeared in the Winter 2021 issue of Pastry Arts Magazine)

My goal here was to create a viennoiserie shaped as a crown without using a silicone mold. I used a brioche feuilletée dough, because it has an amazing taste and texture. I love to work with this dough, because the smell is so heady; it reminds me of the odor of baked butter that brings me back to my childhood when I would step into a bakery shop. I piped a homemade raspberry-chocolate jam in the center (I like combining the acidity of a fruit with a hint of chocolate). This viennoiserie is great for a snack, and it reminds me of the ‘gouter’ time when I was a little boy. But what I like the most about this dessert is that you can duplicate it very easily with different shapes and flavors. The possibilities with this pastry are endless.

Yield:  22 portions

Brioche Feuilleteé

• 530 g high-gluten flour
• 10 g salt
• 60 g granulated sugar
• 100 g whole eggs
• 25 g fresh yeast
• 180 g milk, at 39˚F (3.8˚C)
• 50 g unsalted butter 83% (preferably Beurremont), cubed
• 300 g Beurremont Tourage Butter 82% (for lamination)

1. Combine the flour, salt, sugar, whole eggs and yeast in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook. Mix on 1st speed for 1 minute and then add half of the cold milk. Add the remaining milk, if necessary, and mix at 2nd speed for 7-8 minutes.

2. Next, while mixing on 1^st speed, add the 50 g of butter cubes, mixing until the butter is well-incorporated. Mix on 2nd speed for another 3 minutes. The temperature of the dough at the end of this process should be a maximum of 75˚F (24˚C). Allow the dough to rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.

3. Divide the dough and keep at 35˚F (1.66˚C) for at least 12 hours.

4. Give the dough 1 double turn with the Tourage butter and then 1 single turn.

Bicolor Brioche Feuilletée

• 175 g high-gluten flour
• 3 g salt
• 20 g granulated sugar
• 40 g whole eggs
• 8 g fresh yeast
• 60 g whole milk, at 39˚F (3.88˚C), divided
• 5 g red gel color (preferably Pastry 1)
• 15 g unsalted butter 83%, cubed

1. Combine the flour, salt, sugar, whole eggs and yeast in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook. Mix on 1st speed for 1 minute and then add half of the cold milk. Add the remaining milk, if necessary, and mix at 2nd speed for 7-8 minutes.

2. Next, while mixing on 1^st speed, add the butter pieces and mix until the butter is well-incorporated. Mix on 2^nd speed for another 3 minutes. The temperature of the dough at the end of this process should be a maximum of 75˚F (24˚C). Allow the dough to rest at room temperature for 30 minutes.

3. Divide the dough and keep at 35˚F (1.66˚C) for at least 12 hours.

4. Run the dough through a sheeter to a thickness of 4ʺ.

Raspberry-Chocolate Jam

• 230 g raspberry puree (preferably Ravifruit), thawed
• 355 g granulated sugar, divided
• 5 g apple pectin
• 50 g glucose syrup
• 50 g Cacao Noel 72% Apurimac Couverture chocolate
• 4 g citric acid

1. Heat puree to 122˚F (50˚C).

2. Combine 20% of the sugar with the apple pectin and pour the sugar and pectin mixture a little at a time into the puree, then add the remaining sugar and glucose syrup. Cook the mixture to 218˚F (103˚ C). Add the melted chocolate and the citric acid. Allow the mixture to rest, then process in Robot Coupe.

Assembly and Baking

1. Place Bicolor Brioche Feuilletée on top of the laminated Brioche Feuilletée Dough and run through sheeter that is calibrated to a thickness of 4”. Cut the dough into 13” long x 1.5”high rectangles.Place the rectangular pieces into non-stick metal loaf pans 2”H x 3”W. Proof at 75-77˚F (24˚C-25˚C) at 75% humidity about 75 to 90 minutes.

2. Bake in convection oven at 320˚F (160˚C) or deck oven 340˚F (171˚C) for about around 16-20 minutes.

3. Brush with simple syrup. Pipe the Raspberry-Chocolate Jam into the middle of each crown.

About Eric Bertoïa

Eric Bertoa is the Corporate Pastry Chef of Paris Gourmet in Carlstadt, NJ. He became Daniel Boulud’s corporate pastry chef, managing and supervising all pastry departments in restaurants and retail establishments around the world.He gets his inspiration from almost everything: nature, seasons, a conversation with his peers, art, books, magazines, travel, and the knowledge of worldwide culture.