Nocciola by Noelle Marchetti

(This recipe appeared in the Summer 2022 issue of Pastry Arts Magazine)

The Nocciola at Yolan is a decadent dessert inspired by Baci Perugina treats, which were created in the region around Perugia, Italy. This dessert features various elements of chocolate, hazelnut, chicory, and espresso. We also utilize many textures, like an airy mousse, chewy meringue, crunchy caramel, and creamy Italian gelato. It’s the absolute perfect dessert for anyone with a sweet tooth.

Yield: 24 servings

Chicory Caramel Mousse

• 250 g heavy cream
• 4 g ground chicory spice
• 425 g granulated sugar, divided
• 20 g unsalted butter
• 30 g gelatin sheets, bloomed
• 162 g egg yolks
• 1000 g heavy cream, softly whipped

1. In a small pot, combine 250 g of the cream with the chicory and heat until hot. Cover and allow to infuse for 10 minutes. Set aside.

2. In a larger pot, make a dry, dark caramel with 300 g of the sugar. Deglaze the caramel with the chicory cream, butter, and the drained gelatin. Set aside.

3. In a small pot, cook the remaining 125 g sugar to 240° In a stand mixer, whip the yolks until light and fluffy. When sugar reaches 240°F, stream into whipping yolks and continue to mix until cool.

4. Add the warm caramel to the yolk mixture in stages and fold gently. Fold in the soft whipped cream and pipe the mousse into molds.

Aero Chocolate

• 200 g Valrhona Guanaja chocolate
• 56 g vegetable oil
• 3 ISI chargers

1. Melt the chocolate and oil over double boiler to 100˚F (38°C). Cover double boiler.

2. Pour into ISI can and charge 3 times with cream charger. Dispense onto a frozen pan lined with acetate. Store in the refrigerator and break as needed.

Milk Chocolate Glaze

• 200 g heavy cream
• 166 g praline paste
• 600 g Valrhona Absolu Cristal neutral glaze
• 133 g water
• 466 g Valrhona Jivara chocolate
• 15 g gelatin, bloomed

1. In a pot, heat the cream, praline paste, neutral glaze and water until boiling. Pour over chocolate and drained gelatin. Immersion blend and strain.

2. Chill before using at 90°F (32˚C).

Hazelnut Tuile

• 100 g milk
• 250 g unsalted butter
• 100 g glucose
• 5 g NH pectin
• 300 g granulated sugar
• 100 g cacao nibs
• 200 g chopped hazelnuts
• Maldon salt, to taste

1. In a pot, heat the milk, butter and glucose until melted.

2. Mix the pectin and sugar together. Add to the hot mixture and whisk well. Cook to 223˚F (106°C) while whisking constantly. Add the nibs, hazelnuts and salt. Spread in a thin layer on parchment and freeze.

3. Bake at 315°F (157˚C) for 12 minutes, or until dark golden brown.

4. Once the tuile is removed from the oven, immediately cut 0.78ʺ x 6ʺ (2 cm x 15 cm) using a sharp knife. Store in a dry place.

Hazelnut Bavarian

• 200 g heavy cream
• 166 g vanilla sauce
• 6 g gelatin sheets, bloomed
• 50 g Valrhona Jivara chocolate
• 50 g Valrhona Gianduja hazelnut chocolate
• 66 g chopped hazelnuts, toasted

1. In a stand mixer, whip the cream to soft peaks. Set aside.

2. Heat the vanilla sauce and drained gelatin until the gelatin is completely melted. Pour over chocolate and immersion blend.

3. Fold the chocolate mixture into the whipped cream and add toasted chopped hazelnuts. Pipe into quenelle mold and freeze.

Chicory Chantilly

• 111 g heavy cream
• 6 g chicory
• 7 g crushed espresso beans
• 40 g white chocolate

1. In a pot, bring the heavy cream, chicory and crushed espresso beans to a boil. Turn off the heat and let the mixture stand for 10 minutes.

2. Strain over the white chocolate and immersion blend.

3. Chill overnight before whipping to soft peaks.
   

   

Chicory Meringues

• 100 g granulated sugar
• 20 g water
• 50 g egg whites
• Chicory, for sprinkling

1. Cook sugar and water to 243˚F (117°C).

2. In a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, whip the egg whites until foamy. Pour the sugar mixture over the whipping egg whites and whip to stiff peaks. Pipe in lines on silicone baking mat with small round tip.Sprinkle with chicory and dehydrate at 215°F (102˚C) for 17 minutes, or until crisp.

3. Break into 3ʺ (7.6 cm) sticks and store in a dry place.

Hazelnut Sablé

• 105 g unsalted butter
• 79 g confectioners’ sugar
• 3 g black pepper
• 3 g salt
• 44 g eggs
• 208 g all-purpose flour
• 36 g hazelnut flour

1. In a stand mixer, cream the butter, sugar, pepper and salt until fluffy.

2. Slowly stream in the eggs, scraping the sides between additions.

3. Add all-purpose and hazelnut flours and mix until homogenous.

4. Remove from the mixer and roll small sections of the dough between parchment paper to 1/8ʺ (3.2 mm) thickness. Chill until firm.

5. Cut out large circles matching the diameter of the mold. Bake on silicone baking mat at 325°F (163˚C) for 8-10 minutes, or until golden brown. Store at room temperature.

Toasted Meringue

• 100 g granulated sugar
• 20 g water
• 50 g egg whites

1. In a pot, cook the sugar and water to 240°F (115˚C).

2. In the bowl of a stand mixer, using the whisk attachment, whip the egg whites until foamy. Stream in the sugar mixture and whip until cool.

3. Spread the finished meringue on a sheet pan and toast until black. Stir and repeat until all meringue is brown. Set aside.

Italian Meringue Gelato

• 375 g milk
• 28 g milk powder
• 138 g heavy cream
• 8 g trimoline
• 8 g stabilizer
• 83 g granulated sugar
• 13 g egg yolk
• 150 g Toasted Meringue

1. In a pot, heat the milk, milk powder, cream and trimoline.

2. In a bowl, mix the stabilizer, sugar and yolk into a paste.

3. When the milk comes to a boil, temper it into the yolk mixture while whisking. Return the mixture to the pot and bring to 181˚F (83°C) while stirring constantly with a spatula. Add the Toasted Meringue and fold gently. Chill overnight.

4. Strain the base, then blend with an immersion blender. Process in ice cream machine.

Assembly

• Toasted Hazelnuts
• Tempered Chocolate Rings
• Gold Leaf

1. Melt the glaze to 90°F (32˚C) and blend with immersion blender until smooth. Glaze half of the Chicory Caramel Mousse ring and place on top of the Hazelnut Sablé.

2. Crumble a bit of the Hazelnut Sablé to use under gelato.

3. Spread a thin layer of glaze on a plate, starting from left to right. Place the glazed mousse and sablé in the center of the plate, covering the right edge of the glaze swipe. Pipe two Chicory Chantilly kisses on either side of the mousse – one on top, one on the bottom. Place two toasted hazelnuts and two pieces of Aero Chocolate next to the Chantilly. Place a Hazelnut Tuile stick on top of the mousse to the right side of the ring, and place one Hazelnut Bavarian quenelle on top. Lean a tempered chocolate ring against the Bavarian quenelle. Lean two meringue sticks against the front of the mousse ring and finish with gold leaf on the glaze. Quenelle Italian Meringue Gelato and place to the right of the mousse on a bed of crumbled Hazelnut Sablé.

About Noelle Marchetti

Noelle Marchetti is the Executive Pastry Chef in Yolan at The Joseph, Nashville, TN. Her signature style can be described as modern and geometric. She enjoys plating pastry creations that embody different shapes and clean lines.