Executive Pastry Chef, The Rittenhouse Hotel
This dessert is inspired by the French confection calisson, highlighting the intense almond flavor and the background flavors of candied cantaloupe and orange.
Yield: Approx. 6-8 portions
Candied Cantaloupe
- 350 g cantaloupe, sliced 1″ thick
- 250 g sugar
- 500 g water
- Put the melon in a pot with cold water. Bring to a boil and shock it in an ice bath.
- Once cool, bring the water and sugar to a boil and pour over the melon. Wrap and let rest overnight.
- The next day, strain the melon. Bring the syrup to a boil and pour over the melon. Repeat this process for 5 days.
- On day 6, strain and let the syrup reduce by half, pour over the melon and allow it to rest overnight.
- Drain the melon, then place it in a dehydrator for 2-3 days.
Cantaloupe Gel
- 75 g sugar
- 90 g water
- 7 g agar
- 157 g cantaloupe juice
- Bring all ingredients except the cantaloupe juice to a boil and pour over the juice. Let rest overnight.
- Blend in a Vitamix until smooth.
Orange Shortbread
- 225 g unsalted butter
- 150 g sugar
- Zest of 2 oranges
- 1 egg
- 300 g all-purpose flour
- 1 g salt
- Cream the butter, sugar and zest.
- Add the egg, then the dry ingredients and let rest in the walk-in.
- Sheet the shortbread down to 1.5 mm and cut using an oval cutter. Bake some without sheeting (this will be used for the crumble).
- Bake all of the shortbread for 5-7 minutes at 350°F (175°C).
- Process the unsheeted shortbread for crumble. Set the shortbread ovals aside until needed.
Orange Anglaise
- 226 g heavy cream
- Zest of 2 oranges
- 35 g sugar
- 1 egg
- 13 g yolks
- Warm the milk and zest.
- Temper in eggs and sugar, and cook to nappe.
- Strain and let cool.
Dehydrated Meringue Sheets
- 2 parts sugar
- 1 part egg whites
- Over a double boiler, whisk the sugar and egg whites until the sugar is dissolved.
- Transfer to a mixing bowl and whisk until medium peaks form.
- Thinly spread the meringue onto parchment paper.
- Place in a dehydrator overnight.
Almond Namelaka
- 1.5 gelatin sheets
- 12 g almond butter
- 75 g almond paste
- 300 g heavy cream
- 150 g milk
- 250 g white chocolate
- Bloom the gelatin. Steep the almond butter and paste with the cream and burr mix.
- Add the milk and bloomed gelatin, strain over the chocolate, and let set overnight.
- Whip to medium peaks.
Almond Cream
- 226 g heavy cream
- 75 g almond paste
- Steep together, burr mix, and strain. Let cool overnight.
Almond Mousse
- 7 g gelatin sheets
- Almond Cream (from previous recipe)
- 56 g yolks
- 56 g confectioner’s sugar
- 7 g almond liqueur
- Bloom the gelatin and whip the Almond Cream to soft/medium peaks, and set aside.
- Over a double boiler, whisk the yolks, confectioner’s sugar and almond liqueur until warm and the sugar is dissolved. Whip until light in color.
- Melt the gelatin and temper it into the yolks, then fold in the Almond Cream.
- Pipe into skinny oval molds and freeze.
Almond Ice Cream
- 75 g almond paste
- 250 g milk
- 250 g almond milk
- 50 g yolks
- 150 g sugar
- 125 g heavy cream
- Steep the almond paste with the milks and burr mix. Whisk together the yolks and sugar.
- Temper the milk into the yolks and cook the ice cream base to nappe, then strain over the cream.
- Pour into Pacojet containers and freeze overnight before spinning.
Calisson
- 100 g almond flour
- 75 g confectioner’s sugar
- 80 g candied cantaloupe
- 20 g candied apricot
- 2 g orange blossom water
- Combine all ingredients in a food processor until it becomes a smooth paste.
- Spread the mixture onto wafer paper and roll to 0.5 cm thick. Let dry at room temperature.
- When using a calisson cutter, ice with royal icing after cutting.
Royal Icing:
- 1 egg white
- 150 g confectioner’s sugar
- 4 g vanilla paste
- Whisk together until smooth.
Assembly
- Almond cotton candy sugar
- 2 pieces of thin puff pastry (1×2 inches each)
- Candied orange segments
- With a rose piping tip, pipe the namelaka on top of 1 piece of puff pastry, stack another piece of puff pastry on top and repeat piping. Place in the center of the plate.
- In the center, place 1 piece of the candied orange segment and a small piece of the Candied Cantaloupe.
- Place dots of the Cantaloupe Gel on the top, bottom right, and left.
- On the top and bottom left, place the Almond Mousse on the shortbread at an angle. On top of each mousse, place 1 piece of the Candied Cantaloupe and a Meringue Shard.
- Place the Orange Shortbread Crumble at the top right at an angle.
- Place one Calisson on the top mousse and one near the bottom gel.
- Quenelle the Almond Ice Cream and place it on top of the crumble.
- Pour the anglaise at the bottom of the millefeuille.
- Spin two small bundles of cotton candy and place one over the ice cream and one near the bottom Almond Mousse.
Photo Credits: Mike Prince
(This recipe appeared in the Summer 2024 issue of Pastry Arts Magazine)
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