Lovers’ Dessert by Leonardo di Carlo

(This recipe appeared in the Winter 2021 issue of Pastry Arts Magazine)

Chocolate has long been associated with Valentine’s Day and love, and this entremets is a memorable dessert to mark that special evening. Layers of chocolate biscuit, Marsala cream, caramelized hazelnuts and a creamy milk chocolate mousse are enrobed in a sweet-tart raspberry glaze, then garnished with a multitude of chocolate hearts. It is, literally, a labor of love!

Yield: 1 entremets

Dark Chocolate Biscuit

• 92 g all-purpose flour
• 7 g baking powder
• 247 g whole eggs
• 210 g granulated sugar
• 123 g almond powder
• 25 g cocoa powder
• 92 g water
• 123 g anhydrous clarified butter, melting point 62˚F (17°C)
• 80 g dark couverture 70%, melted

1. Sift the flour with the baking powder.

2. Whip the eggs lightly with the sugar, then add the almond powder, flour-baking powder mixture, and the cocoa powder.

3. Make a ganache with the water, anhydrous butter and melted couverture. Add to the egg mixture. Stir gently.

4. Pour 1000 g of biscuit mixture on a 16” x 23” (40 x 60 cm) baking tray and bake at 375˚F (190˚C) with fan (valve closed) for about 8 minutes.

Caramelized Hazelnuts

• 140 g granulated sugar
• 50 g water
• 1 g vanilla bean pod
• 350 g toasted hazelnuts and hot
• 10 g unsalted butter
• 4 g fleur de sel

1. Cook the sugar with the water and vanilla to 241˚F (116°C), then add the hot hazelnuts. Stir over the heat until the sugar begins to caramelize.

2. Add the butter and fleur de sel and stir until completely dissolved. Pour onto parchment paper and allow to cool. Break up and store in an airtight container.

Creamy Milk Chocolate Mousse

• 248 g fresh full-fat milk, 3.6% fat
• 83 g heavy cream, 35% fat
• 12 g gelatin sheets, bloomed
• 372 g milk chocolate couverture, 41%, melted
• 537 g semi-whipped cream, 35% fat

1. Heat the milk with the cream to 104˚F (40°C), then add the softened gelatin. Pour into the melted couverture and stir until a ganache is formed.

2. At 104-113˚F (40-45°C), add the semi-whipped cream. Pour into a mold and shock freeze.

Marsala Cream

• 276 g dry Marsala wine
• 166 g egg yolks
• 155 g granulated sugar
• 19 g rice starch
• 4 g gelatin sheets, bloomed
• 180 g unsalted butter, 82% fat

1. Make a custard with the first four ingredients, then add the softened gelatin and stir well. Add the butter and emulsify well.

2. Refrigerate overnight at 39˚F (4°C) before using.

Raspberry Glaze

• 317 g raspberry puree, 10% sugar
• 312 g granulated sugar
• 208 g dextrose
• 134 g liquid inverted sugar
• 131 g 62 DE glucose syrup
• 25 g gelatin sheets (gold), bloomed
• 124 g cocoa butter, chopped
• 1 g powdered red food coloring

1. Combine the first five ingredients in a saucepan and bring to 70° Brix. Let cool to 131-140˚F (55-60°C), then add the softened gelatin and chopped cocoa butter and emulsify with an immersion hand blender without incorporating air bubbles.

2. Store glaze in the refrigerator in an airtight container; use after 24 hours.

3. Heat to 82-86˚F (28-30°C) before glazing cake.

Assembly

• Chocolate hearts, for garnish

1. Place a disc of Dark Chocolate Biscuit on the bottom, pipe a layer of Marsala Cream on top, then sprinkle with Caramelized Hazelnuts.

2. Top with a second disc of Dark Chocolate Biscuit. Cover with the Creamy Milk Mousse, then shock freeze.

3. Unmold and glaze. Garnish with chocolate hearts, as desired.