Heirloom Tomato Brioche by Russell Goodman

Executive Chef, Elkstone Farm, Steamboat Springs, CO

On our farm, we highlight the flavors of the vegetables we grow. During tomato season, we have an abundance of tomatoes in various types. This brioche recipe subtly incorporates our tomato harvest into bread service, sharing the beauty of this product with guests.

Yield: approximately 15 rolls (85 g each)

Tomato Water

• 6 large heirloom tomatoes
• Blend the tomatoes in a high-power blender until smooth.
• Strain the blended tomatoes through a cheesecloth-lined chinois without pressing or agitating. Reserve the tomato water and pulp separately.

Brioche Dough

• 265 g Tomato Water
• 30 g egg yolks
• 75 g granulated sugar
• 6 g active dry yeast
• 565 g all-purpose flour
• 12 g kosher salt
• 115 g unsalted butter, softened, room temperature
• 2 large eggs, for egg wash
• Tomato pulp (from Tomato Water step)
• Maldon® salt, as needed
• 115 g unsalted butter, melted (for brushing after baking)

1. Warm the tomato water to room temperature.
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk together the tomato water, egg yolks and sugar.
3. Sprinkle the yeast over the mixture and let it bloom until foamy, about 5 minutes.
4. Add the flour all at once and mix on low speed with the dough hook until the ingredients are combined and a dough forms.
5. Add the salt and mix until incorporated.
6. Increase the speed to medium and add the softened butter gradually, waiting until each addition is fully incorporated. The dough should be smooth, shiny and elastic.
7. Allow the dough to rise until it has doubled in size.
8. Portion the dough into 85-g pieces, roll them into balls and place them on a parchment-lined sheet pan.
9. Make an egg wash by whisking together the eggs and about half of the reserved tomato pulp. Brush each roll lightly with the egg wash, ensuring even coverage.
10. Sprinkle each roll generously with Maldon® salt.
11. Allow the rolls to rise for 60-90 minutes, or until soft and increased in size.
12. Bake rolls at 375°F (190°C) for 8 minutes in a convection oven; longer in a conventional oven. They will be golden brown and light for their size. The internal temperature should reach at least 190°F (88°C).
13. Remove from the oven and immediately brush with melted butter. Cool fully before serving or storing.

Russel Goodman
Executive Chef, Elkstone Farm, Steamboat Springs, CO

Early Influence

My mother was a from-scratch cook with strong French influences. I was impacted by her passion and excitement for baking, and read all of her cookbooks over and over throughout my childhood. 

Signature Style

My style in pastry is to let the ingredients speak for themselves. Rather than using many flavoring agents or spices, I prefer to let the flavors of the central ingredients take center stage. I tend not to over-sweeten desserts, but rather seek balance among the ingredients in a way that is harmonious in the final product. I also pay particular attention to provenance and the manner in which the ingredients were grown and prepared, preferring minimal processing and organic farming techniques.

Inspiration for New Recipes

My inspiration for new recipes comes from the farm. As ingredients make their way to the kitchen from the field, I think about how to express their flavors and textures with as few intervening steps as possible, using classical techniques from around the world.

Current Flavor Favorites

I am most excited about the flavor of the berries we grow. From gooseberries to currants to blueberries and raspberries, these fruits are special because they are never sold and are never included in our CSA shares, but rather come directly to the kitchen for use in our farm dinners. Through the use of fermentation, for example, we often add depth to the palette of flavors we can express using these products. Nevertheless, their flavors will never be as pure and clear as they are the moment they are harvested.

Production Tip

Consider the temperature of the ingredients you are using to make bread. If you start with warm water, but add cold eggs and cold butter, the final temperature of the dough will not be optimal. To ensure that your finished product after mixing is the temperature at which you want it, give thought to the temperature of the ingredients you are adding and let them temper properly before use.

Technical Tip

When making bread, let the dough tell you when it is time to proceed to the next step. Respond to the signs and signals from your product rather than the ticking of the clock. The ambient temperature will change throughout the year, depending on your location, and the time required for each step may ebb and flow. Allow the dough to take the time it needs to reach the correct state before proceeding, rather than using the clock as the determinant of your pace.

Career Advice

Listen to trusted sources such as the chefs who are teaching you. Carefully consider their critiques and store that information for future use. Additionally, save recipes that work. Good recipes are the cornerstone of a pastry chef’s arsenal, alongside good techniques. Start collecting them early and you will have a library from which to pull ideas and components that you can use creatively as you create dishes.

(This recipe appeared in the Winter 2025 issue of Pastry Arts Magazine)