James Beard Award–winning author and culinary columnist (New cookbook: Chocolat: Parisian Desserts and Other Delights)
Tortes are flourless cakes that derive their structure from nut flour rather than wheat flour. They are prized for their depth of flavor, rustic elegance and naturally moist crumb. Because of the high fat content in nuts, these cakes improve with time and are ideal for advanced preparation. Hazelnuts, with their rich aroma and affinity for chocolate — famously showcased in gianduja — create a deeply satisfying dessert with minimal adornment.
Yield: One 23 cm (9-inch) torte
- 200 g skinned whole hazelnuts
- 2 Tbsp granulated raw sugar
- 130 g dark chocolate, approximately 66%, chopped
- 4 large eggs, separated
- 200 g granulated sugar, divided
- 1 Tbsp Frangelico
- ¼ tsp fine sea salt
- Crème fraîche, for serving

- Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C).
- Line the bottom of a 9-inch (23 cm) springform pan with parchment paper and butter the sides.
- Combine the hazelnuts, raw sugar and chocolate in a food processor and process until coarsely ground.
- Switch to the pulse function and continue pulsing until finely ground, stopping before the mixture warms and turns oily or paste-like.
- In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, or using a hand mixer, beat the egg yolks with 150 g of the granulated sugar on medium-high speed until pale, thick and voluminous.
- Remove the bowl from the mixer and fold in the hazelnut–chocolate mixture and the Frangelico using a silicone spatula.
- In a clean, dry bowl, beat the egg whites with the salt on medium-high speed until foamy.
- With the mixer running, gradually add the remaining 50 g sugar and continue beating until the whites are glossy and form stiff peaks with a slight curve at the tip (often referred to as a “bird’s beak”).
- Stir approximately one-quarter of the whipped whites vigorously into the batter to lighten it.
- Gently fold in the remaining whites, taking care to lift the batter from the bottom of the bowl. A few streaks of white are preferable to overmixing.
- Transfer the batter to the prepared pan and smooth the surface.
- Bake for 40 minutes, or until a knife inserted into the center comes out clean.
- Allow the torte to rest in the pan for 10 minutes, then release the sides.
- After an additional 10 minutes, invert the cake onto a plate, remove the parchment and return the torte right side up onto a serving platter.
- Once completely cooled, store covered at room temperature for up to 2 days.
- Serve warm, at room temperature, or chilled, accompanied by crème fraîche.
- For optimal flavor development, allow the torte to rest several hours at room temperature before serving. The texture becomes more fudgy when chilled and lighter when warm. The torte may be frozen for up to 6 weeks; thaw overnight at room temperature before serving.
(This recipe appeared in the Spring 2026 issue of Pastry Arts Magazine)



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