(This recipe appeared in the Winter 2021 issue of Pastry Arts Magazine)
Citrus season is here, so now I can use a variety of these fruits for a creation I have had in mind for some time now. Lemon and poppy seed cakes are part of my childhood memories, and I love the texture that the poppies give to a sponge. This creation changed little by little as I had different elements in my head, but at the last moment I could visualise how it would look. I like using natural colors, and using the jelly insert as an element of the decoration gives a pop of color to the finished product. In a production setting an assembly like this facilitates the manipulation of the inserts. This creation is completely gluten- and nut-free.
Yield: 20 petits gateaux
Special equipment: Pavoni #PX4350 sphere molds
- 130 g brown rice flour
- 1.5 g guar gum (preferably Louis François)
- 50 g confectioners’ sugar
- 17 g oatmeal flour
- 1.2 g salt
- 70 g unsalted butter, 82% fat
- 28 g whole egg
- Mix all the dry ingredients with the butter to form a sandy texture. Add the egg and mix until a dough forms.
- Roll dough out to a thickness of 0.12ʺ (3 mm) and then refrigerate to firm up.
- Cut 2ʺ (5 cm) diameter discs and bake on a perforated silicone mat at 300˚F (150°C) for 15 minutes (par-baked). Allow to cool.
Gluten-Free Flour Mixture
- 12 g brown rice flour
- 12 g fine corn meal
- 12 g potato starch
- Sift together all ingredients and whisk gently to combine. Place in airtight container.
Lemon Poppy Seed Sponge
- 80 g raw ‘unrefined’ sugar
- 1.3 g fine sea salt (fleur de sel)
- 80 g oatmeal flour
- 25 g whole egg
- 25 g egg yolk
- 25 g heavy cream, 35% fat
- 20 g poppy seeds
- Finely grated zest of ½ lemon
- 70 g unsalted butter
- 90 g egg whites
- 10 g superfine granulated sugar
- 35 g Gluten-Free Flour Mixture (above), sifted
- 2.2 g baking powder (gluten-free)
- In a bowl, using a spatula, mix together the sugar, salt, oatmeal flour, egg, egg yolk, cream, poppy seeds and lemon zest. Melt the butter and add to the mixture, combining well.
- Whip the egg whites and gradually add the superfine sugar to form a French meringue. Fold the meringue into the poppy seed mixture, then stir in the Gluten-Free Flour Mixture and the baking powder.
- Pipe 20 g of the sponge batter onto each par-baked shortbread in a 2ʺ (5 cm) diameter silicone mold. Bake at 350˚F (180°C) for 10-15 minutes (for a fan forced oven).
- When the sponges come out of the oven, cut them to 1.5ʺ (4 cm) for assembly.
Chef’s tip: You can replace or remove the poppy seeds and lemon zest in the recipe.
Bergamot Orange Compote with Finger Lime
- 80 g bergamot orange puree (Capfruit)
- 260 g water
- 60 g superfine granulated sugar
- 50 g instant inulin (preferably Louis François)
- 7 g pectin NH
- 2 g locust bean gum
- 35 g finger lime
- Heat the puree with the water to 122˚F (50°C). Add the powders and blend before heating to 185˚F (85°C). Allow to cool.
- Fold in the finger lime. Pour 25 g directly into molds.
Chef’s tip: Stir the compote well before pouring to ensure that the finger lime is well incorporated into the mixture.
Timut Pepper Infusion
- 187 g water
- 2.5 g Timut pepper
- Boil water with pepper; cover and infuse for 2 hours.
- 148 g Timut Pepper Infusion
- 50 g gelatin mass (1:6)
- 2 g salt
- 540 g mascarpone
- 1 vanilla bean, split and scraped
- 160 g pasteurized egg whites
- 80 g superfine granulated sugar
- 20 g instant inulin
- Melt the gelatin mass to 104˚F (40°C) and pour onto infusion; add salt. Pour onto the mascarpone and cut and scraped vanilla bean before emulsifying with a hand blender.
- Blend whites with sugar and inulin and whip to form a creamy meringue. Fold meringue into mascarpone base at 59-68˚F (15-20°C). Use immediately.
Chef’s tip: The Timut pepper has a certain floral flavor profile which works well with the bergamot. Using a water base for the recipe enables increased sensation of the mascarpone in the recipe.
- 388 g water
- 559 g superfine granulated sugar, divided
- 13 g pectin X58 (Louis François)
- 40 g lemon juice
- Heat water with 460 g of the sugar to 122˚F (50°C).
- Add the remaining 99 g sugar and pectin. Blend well and heat to 185˚F (85°C). Add lemon juice, cover and refrigerate to 24 hours.
Chef’s tip: This glaze can last for months if well covered and refrigerated.
Neutral Glaze for Glazing
- 1000 g Neutral Glaze (above)
- 200 g water
- Heat glaze with water to 89-95˚F (32-35°C). Glaze frozen cakes as directed below.
- Pour 25 g Bergamot Orange Compote into each cavity and blast-freeze to set.
- Pipe mousse into molds then insert sponge/shortbread insert. Smooth tops, then blast-freeze.
- Unmold and dip into glaze with a toothpick.
- Place onto a cake board and decorate with dried flowers.
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