‘FLOWERS’ by ICE Chef Michael Laiskonis

(This recipe appeared in the Winter 2020 issue of Pastry Arts Magazine)

Yogurt Panna Cotta, Rose Gel, Coconut Sorbet, Pistachio Sponge, Basil Seeds, Mango Tuile and Fluid Gel

Used in moderation, floral notes can bring subtle complexity to fruity and nutty flavors. Looking toward the Middle East and Asia for inspiration, one finds classic examples of flowers in dessert – especially rose. I love this combination of mango, rose and pistachio – and the wonderful texture of basil seeds – one might find commonly used in India.

Yield: 12 plated desserts

Coconut Sorbet

• 170 g granulated sugar, divided
• 3 g sorbet stabilizer
• 390 g water
• 75 g glucose powder
• 500 g coconut purée

1. Combine 20 g of the sugar with the stabilizer.

2. Heat water to 120˚F (50˚C). Whisk in stabilizer mixture, then remaining 150 g sugar and the glucose; bring to a boil. Remove from heat and chill; allow syrup to mature for at least 4 hours.

3. Combine purée and syrup and process in batch freezer; extract the mix at 23˚F (-5˚C). Alternatively, transfer to PacoJet canisters and freeze; process as needed.

Mango Tuile

• 250 g mango purée
• 10 g lime juice
• 30 g granulated sugar
• 50 g egg whites

1. Combine all ingredients in a blender and process until smooth.

2. Chill and allow to rest 12 hours.

3. Apply spoonfuls of the puréed mixture onto a Silpat and spread each into a thin layer; dry in a convection oven at 200˚F (93˚C) for 20-25 minutes. As they are removed from the oven, shape the tuiles while still warm and flexible. Allow to cool and store in an airtight container with desiccant.

Mango Fluid Gel

• 50 g water
• 2.5 g agar agar
• 200 g mango purée
• 50 g passion fruit purée
• 75 g granulated sugar

1. Combine the water and agar in a small saucepan. Gently bring to a boil; reduce heat while maintaining a simmer for 2 minutes.

2. Remove from the heat and whisk in mango purée, passion fruit purée and sugar. Allow to cool and set.

3. Process in blender until smooth.

Yogurt Panna Cotta

• 500 g heavy cream (36% fat)
• 200 g granulated sugar
• 2 pieces orange zest
• 8 sheets gelatin, bloomed
• 500 g whole milk yogurt

1. In a saucepan, combine cream, sugar and orange zest, gently warming over medium heat.

2. Remove from heat and add gelatin, stirring to dissolve. Temper into the yogurt and strain through a chinois.

3. Deposit into lined 5.5ʺ (14 cm) tubes or other desired form. Freeze to set.

Rose Gel

• 2 sheets gelatin
• 145 g cold water, divided
• 1 g agar agar
• 75 g rose syrup

Directions

1. Hydrate the gelatin in 20 g of the water.

2. Combine the agar and the remaining 125 g water in a small saucepan. Gently bring to a boil; reduce heat while maintaining a simmer for 1-2 minutes.

3. Remove from the heat and gently stir in bloomed gelatin and rose syrup. Allow to cool slightly for a few moments and transfer to a flat acetate-lined half sheet pan. Chill and allow to set.

4. Score into rectangles measuring 1.5ʺ (4 cm) wide by 5.5ʺ (14 cm) long or a size and shape appropriate to desired form.

Pistachio Sponge

• 50 g unsweetened pistachio paste
• 50 g sweetened pistachio paste
• 200 g whole eggs, room temperature
• 20 g rice flour
• 25 g granulated sugar
• 2 g salt

1. Thoroughly combine all ingredients and blend with immersion blender; pass through a fine-mesh sieve.

2. Transfer the mixture to a 1-pint foam siphon and load with 2 gas chargers, per manufacturer’s instructions.

3. Dispense the mixture into small paper cups.

4. Place in microwave and cook on high power for 35-40 seconds. Allow to cool.

Basil Seeds

• 60 g water
• 3 fresh basil leaves
• Zest of 1 lemon
• 15 g basil seeds
• 40 g simple syrup

1. Heat water and add basil leaves and lemon zest; allow to infuse for 30 minutes. Strain.

2. Combine seeds and water and simple syrup and allow to stand for at least 1 hour to fully hydrate. Reserve under refrigeration.

Assembly

1. Unmold the Yogurt Panna Cotta and drape with the Rose Gel – cut into thirds and allow to temper.

2. Arrange the panna cotta onto each plate and garnish with Basil Seeds, Pistachio Sponge, Mango Tuile and Mango Fluid Gel. Finish with Coconut Sorbet.

About Michael Laiskonis

Michael Laiskonis is the Creative Director of the Institute of Culinary Education in New York, NY. He was named the James Beard Foundation’s Outstanding Pastry Chef in 2007 while running the pastry program at Michelin-starred Le Bernardin for eight years.