Brazilian Vanilla, Caramel, and Jabuticaba Mille-Feuille by Renan Zacchi

Pastry Chef, Zacchi & Oliveira

This modern interpretation of the classic mille-feuille highlights Brazilian ingredients such as Banana Vanilla (Cerrado Vanilla), cured directly on the plant; Bahian Vanilla; Chamissonis Vanilla; Jabuticaba (a grape-like fruit with a unique flavor); and Brazil nuts. The recipe integrates both traditional French and Brazilian pastry techniques, employing methods such as enzyme-assisted flavor extraction, pressurized butter infusion and sugar balancing for improved texture and flavor complexity.

Pressurized Infusion of Chamissonis Vanilla in Butter

Infusing butter with vanilla flavor using a siphon accelerates the infusion and enhances the aroma. Chamissonis vanilla was selected for its mild tannin profile, which pairs beautifully with rich, buttery preparations.

• ½ Chamissonis vanilla bean
• 400 g unsalted butter

1. Split the vanilla bean and scrape out the seeds; reserve both the seeds and the pod.
2. Melt the butter in a bain-marie and maintain it at 95°F (35°C).
3. Combine the butter and vanilla, then pour the mixture into a siphon.
4. Charge the siphon with one gas cartridge, shake gently, and let stand at 99°F (37°C) for 15 minutes.
5. Carefully release the pressure, strain the butter, and refrigerate it at 39°F (4°C) in a covered container.

You will use this infused butter in making the Puff Pastry recipe that follows.

Inverted Puff Pastry

Beurre Manie

• 323 g Chamissonis vanilla–infused butter, room temperature
• 130 g all-purpose flour

1. Beat the butter and flour until the mix is homogeneous.
2. Roll out the dough to form an 11.8-inch x 11-inch (30 cm × 28 cm) rectangle.
3. Refrigerate for 1 hour.

Detrempe

• 130 g water
• 303 g all-purpose flour
• 10 g fine salt
• 2 g white vinegar
• 87 g Chamissonis vanilla–infused butter

1. Combine all the ingredients in a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment and knead until smooth.
2. Cover and let rest at room temperature.

Method

Note: Work in a cool environment: approximately 70°F (21°C), 55% humidity.
The beurre manié should be 54-59°F (12-15°C).

1. Roll the Détrempe to the same size as the Beurre Manié and refrigerate for 1 hour (target dough temperature: 41-46°F (5-8°C).
2. Place the Beurre Manié on top of the Détrempe, then invert the stack so the butter layer is underneath.
3. Make one double fold and refrigerate the dough for 30 minutes.
4. Repeat the rolling and folding process two more times (for a total of three double folds), chilling between each fold.
5. Roll to a thickness of .08 inches (2 mm) and bake as desired:
   1. For thin layers: bake under a weight.
   1. For thicker, more compact layers: stack the dough, cut it with a ring mold, and bake with a weight on top.
6. Bake in a convection oven at 355°F (180°C) for 35 minutes or until golden brown.

Avoid excessive browning to preserve the vanilla flavor.

• Cool and store airtight.

Chocolate Caramel 40% with Bahian Vanilla and Manteiga de Garrafa

A silky, aromatic caramel with balanced sweetness and subtle woodiness from Bahian vanilla, complemented by the nutty richness of manteiga de garrafa*.

• ½ Bahian vanilla bean
• 80 g granulated sugar
• 40 g trehalose
• 40 g isomalt
• 250 g heavy cream
• 15 g inverted sugar
• 0.5 g salt
• 100 g 40% milk chocolate, melted
• 20 g manteiga de garrafa

1. Split and scrape the vanilla bean; reserve the pod.
2. Combine the sugar, trehalose and isomalt and cook over medium heat to 330°F (165°C).
3. Bring the cream, inverted sugar vanilla and salt to a boil in a separate pan.
4. Gradually pour the hot cream into the caramel.
5. At 140°F (60°C), pour the caramel mixture into the melted chocolate and blend.
6. Add the manteiga de garrafa and emulsify with a hand blender.
7. Store covered at room temperature.

*mantiega de garrafa is a clarified butter product from Brazil. It is similar to Indian ghee.

Pastry Cream with Banana Vanilla (Cerrado Vanilla) Cured on the Plant

Banana Vanilla, when cured directly on the plant, develops a unique floral depth and intensity that enriches this pastry cream.

• 2 g gelatin, 250 bloom
• 10 g water
• 1 Banana Vanilla (Cerrado Vanilla) bean
• 350 g whole milk
• 150 g heavy cream, 35% fat
• 120 g granulated sugar
• 120 g egg yolks
• 20 g cornstarch
• 20 g all-purpose flour
• 0.5 g salt
• 50 g unsalted butter

1. Hydrate the gelatin in the water.
2. Split the vanilla bean and scrape the seeds; reserve the pod. You will use it later.
3. Heat the milk, cream, sugar and vanilla to 167°F (75°C).
4. Whisk the yolks with the starch, flour and salt.
5. Temper the yolks with the hot milk mixture, then return to the pot and cook until boiling; continue cooking for 2 minutes.
6. Cool to 149°F (65°C), then mix in the bloomed gelatin and the butter.

Jabuticaba Syrup

• 1500 g jabuticaba
• 1500 g water
• 270 g granulated sugar
• 50 g powdered glucose DE 38
• 170 g trehalose
• 20 g inverted sugar
• 20 g sorbitol

1. Combine the fruit and water and cook over medium heat until the skins burst. Skim off any foam.
2. Strain the mixture, pressing on the fruit to extract the liquid.
3. Reheat the syrup, then add all the sugars, whisking until smooth.
4. Cook at 160°F (70°C) for 1 hour, skimming as needed.
5. Strain through a fine sieve and refrigerate for 12 hours to clarify.

Jabuticaba Gel

• 10 g pectin
• 95 g maltodextrin
• 950 g clarified Jabuticaba Syrup

1. Combine the pectin and maltodextrin.
2. Bring the syrup to a boil and whisk in the dry mixture.
3. Boil for 5 minutes. Skim if needed.
4. Strain.
5. Cover with plastic wrap touching the surface.
6. Refrigerate for at least 6 hours.

Enzymatic Extraction of Flavor from Vanilla Pod Skins

This process recovers aromatic compounds from vanilla skins using a blend of enzymes for a concentrated paste.

• 0.2 g pectinase enzyme
• 0.2 g beta-glucanase enzyme
• 30 g water
• 12 g mixed scraped vanilla bean pods (Chamissonis, Bahian, Banana)
• 60 g trehalose

1. Combine the enzymes and the water.
2. Place this mixture in a vacuum bag and seal with the scraped vanilla pods.
3. Cook sous vide at 131-140°F (55-60°C) for 2 hours, agitating occasionally.
4. Raise the temperature to 176°F (80°C) for 5 minutes to deactivate the enzymes.
5. Strain the mixture, combine the resultant liquid with the trehalose, and heat to 185°F (85°C).
6. Let rest covered for 24 hours at room temperature.

Vanilla Foam

A light, aromatic foam that highlights the complexity of enzymatically extracted vanilla.

• 60 g granulated sugar
• 1 g soy lecithin
• 300 g heavy cream
• 16 g enzymatic vanilla paste (above)

1. Combine the sugar and lecithin in a small pot.
2. Add the cream and vanilla paste and heat to 167°F (75°C) while stirring.
3. Refrigerate for 4 hours.
4. Pour into a 500 ml siphon, charge with one cartridge and shake for 5 seconds.
5. Reserve in the refrigerator until needed.

Chopped Brazil Nuts

• 100 g Brazil nuts
• Roast at 300°F (150°C) for 15 minutes.
• Chop finely and reserve.

Assembly

1. Place an Inverted Puff Pastry cylinder in the center of the plate.
2. Add a few chopped Brazil nuts inside the cylinder.
3. Pipe a layer of caramel over the nuts.
4. Add the pastry cream, leaving a small cavity.
5. Fill the cavity with the Jabuticaba Gel.
6. Top with the Vanilla Foam.

(This recipe appeared in the Winter 30 issue of Pastry Arts Magazine)