Black Sesame Croustillant Cookies by Thalia Ho

Excerpted from the book Bittersweet: The Five Tastes of Dessert and Beyond by Thalia Ho. Copyright © 2026 by Thalia Ho. From Harvest, an imprint of HarperCollins Publishers. Reprinted by permission.

I like the selfishness of these. Cookies, naturally, are an indulgent act, but add a second layer, along with a thick middle of buttercream and ganache, as well as a caramelized coating, and they are even more so. The trick is to resist the rich overwhelm, while still wanting more. I do it with black sesame seeds. They’re the dark tetrad types of the pastry world. Covert, intense, and addictive, they take out the sweet and answer to no one.

Yield: 21 sandwich cookies

Cocoa Cookies

• 190 g all-purpose flour
• 65 g Dutch-process cocoa powder, plus additional for dusting
• 3 g fine sea salt
• 170 g unsalted butter, softened
• 150 g granulated sugar
• 50 g whole eggs (approximately 1 egg), at room temperature

1. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, cocoa powder and salt. Set aside.
2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter and sugar on medium speed until pale and fluffy, 3–5 minutes. Scrape down the bowl.
3. Add the egg and mix until fully incorporated.
4. Reduce the mixer speed to low and add the dry ingredients, mixing just until combined.
5. Turn the dough out onto plastic wrap, divide into two equal portions, wrap tightly and refrigerate for at least 1 hour.
6. Preheat the oven to 325°F (160°C). Position oven racks in the upper, middle and lower thirds of the oven.
7. Lightly dust a work surface with cocoa powder. Roll out one portion of dough to a thickness of ¼ inch (6 mm). Using a 2.3-inch (6 cm) round cutter, cut out cookies.
8. Transfer the dough rounds to parchment-lined pans using an offset spatula, spacing evenly.
9. Reroll scraps as needed. Repeat with the remaining dough.
10. Bake for 8 minutes, rotating the pans halfway through, until the cookies are set and dry to the touch.
11. Cool briefly on the pans, then transfer to a wire rack to cool completely.

Black Sesame Croustillant

• 140 g cashews
• 70 g black sesame seeds
• 135 g granulated sugar
• 60 g water
• 3 g smoked salt

1. Increase oven temperature to 350°F (180°C).
2. Spread the cashews and black sesame seeds evenly on a parchment-lined sheet pan. Roast for 10 minutes, until fragrant. Set aside.
3. In a medium saucepan, combine the sugar and water.
4. Bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar.
5. Increase the heat and cook until the syrup reaches 250°F (121°C).
6. Remove from the heat and immediately add the cashews, sesame seeds and salt. Stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until the sugar crystallizes and coats the mixture.
7. Transfer the mixture to a clean saucepan and return to high heat. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the sugar melts again and caramelizes to a deep golden brown. Reduce heat as needed to ensure even caramelization.
8. Spread the caramelized mixture onto the lined sheet pan and allow to cool completely.
9. Once it is hardened, coarsely crush using a mortar and pestle or by hand.

Dark Chocolate-Blasck Sesame Ganache

• 170 g dark chocolate, 60–70%, finely chopped
• 160 g heavy cream
• 15 g black sesame oil

1. Place the chopped chocolate in a heatproof bowl.
2. Heat the cream in a small saucepan until it just begins to simmer.
3. Pour the hot cream over the chocolate and let it stand for 1 minute.
4. Stir gently from the center outward until smooth and emulsified.
5. Stir in the black sesame oil.
6. Allow the ganache to cool at room temperature until thickened and spreadable.

Vanilla Buttercream

• 150 g unsalted butter, softened
• 300 g confectioner’s sugar, sifted
• 45 g heavy cream
• 5 g vanilla extract

1. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, combine all ingredients.
2. Beat on medium speed until light, smooth and fluffy, scraping the bowl as needed.
3. Transfer the buttercream to a piping bag fitted with a ½-inch (1.3 cm) plain round tip.

Assembly

1. Place the croustillant in a shallow, rimmed dish.
2. Turn half of the cooled cookies flat side up. Pipe a ring of buttercream around the perimeter of each cookie to create a border.
3. Fill the center with ganache, then sandwich with the remaining cookies, pressing gently.
4. Roll the exposed edges of the filling in the croustillant until evenly coated.
5. Store in an airtight container in a cool, dark place for 2–3 days.

Photos by Thalia Ho

(This recipe appeared in the Spring 2026 issue of Pastry Arts Magazine)