Crystal Clear

By Miranda Kohout

A native of Chicago born to Mexican parents, Crystal Kass was drawn to Phoenix’s warm winters and moved to Arizona in 2014. She built an impressive resume in her adopted home, coming into her own as Pastry Chef at Valentine, where she garnered national and local recognition. She is the only pastry chef in Arizona to have been nominated for a James Beard Award.

Your journey in pastry arts began with your mother. How did those early experiences shape your approach to baking today?

My  time in the kitchen baking with my mother was always filled with happiness. I try to remember that now when I’m working in a professional kitchen, especially during our busy season. I never want to create an environment for myself and my team that isn’t enjoyable or a place where we can’t have fun while also getting our work done.

Your path shifted from studying kinesiology to pursuing pastry arts. What was the defining moment that made you decide to follow your passion for baking?

I was in my third year of college, and I distinctly remember being in my biomechanics class thinking of how I didn’t want to continue pursuing a career in physical therapy anymore, particularly because I did not like that class at all. I was very unhappy. 

Your time at the French Pastry School in Chicago was pivotal. What key lessons from there do you apply in your daily work?

The French Pastry School taught me how to work clean and work efficiently. I also learned the importance of organization. I still apply all those lessons in my daily work today.

Infusing Southwestern ingredients into your desserts has garnered you significant acclaim. Can you share the process of how you select and integrate these unique ingredients into your creations?

My creation process usually starts with wanting to use a particular Southwestern ingredient that I have not used in a dessert before. From there, I think of what application I would like to use that ingredient – maybe it’s a mousse, or an ice cream, or a cake. Then,  I’ll think of other flavors that will pair well with it and from there, it’s straight into R&D to see if it all comes together as I had envisioned it in my head. That is a much more simplified version of my creative process, because I’m not sure I could articulate what actually goes on in my head during those times. Lol

Your hoja santa ice cream sundae has received a lot of attention. What was the inspiration behind using hoja santa, and how did you develop the final recipe?

The inspiration came from seeing hoja santa in our walk that our sous chef had ordered to use in a future dish. I had never used hoja santa before, but knew that it was used in both savory and sweet applications in Mexico. I wanted to challenge myself by using an ingredient that I had never worked with. It honestly took me a while to figure out how I wanted to use hoja santa until one day I had the idea of making an ice cream – playing off of the classic mint chip ice cream, which I then paired with with a black cardamom caramel – another classic sundae component – and a chocolate mesquite “soil” for texture.

Balancing traditional methods with innovative techniques is a hallmark of your work. How do you decide when to stick with tradition and when to experiment?

I decide whether to stick to tradition and when to experiment based off the dessert I want to create. Sometimes I know that I want to make — let’s say, a tiramisu. I’ll use that dessert here for reference. I knew that I wanted to make a tiramisu, but I also didn’t want to stray away from tradition. So, in order to make it uniquely mine, I had to integrate a few Southwestern ingredients. There wasn’t much experimenting involved. I’ll experiment when I don’t have a dessert in mind, just an ingredient.

Your churro Paris-Brest and sweet corn ice cream are perfect examples of your creativity. Can you walk us through the development of these specific desserts?

My inspiration for the sweet corn sundae was taken from something I used to eat in Chicago often, the cheddar and caramel popcorn from Garret popcorn. I used those flavors to create the sundae. I wanted to use sweet corn while it was in season and turn it into an ice cream. I paired the ice cream with a miso caramel and a cheddar corn nut powder, for crunch. I also thought it would be fun to make this dessert interactive for the guests, so I made a pizzelle cookie using blue corn masa that sat on top of the ice cream bowl, which was meant to be broken into, to get to the ice cream.

My background is in French pastry and so I really wanted to make a dessert using pate a choux. My first thought was to make churros, but for me, that wasn’t creative enough. I’ve seen plenty of churros on dessert menus before – there’s nothing wrong with that, don’t get me wrong- I just wanted to think a little more outside the box. That’s where my background in French pastry helped create the churro Paris-Brest. I combined two classic desserts into one by first making a Paris-Brest, baking it, and then frying it like you would a churro. I then rolled the Paris-Brest in “churro” sugar. Instead of making a hazelnut praline, which is traditional for a Paris-Brest, I made a pepita praline and a pepita mousse to fill it. It was also accompanied by a chocolate sauce.

What are some of the challenges you face when creating desserts that are both comforting and refined, and how do you overcome them?

When creating desserts, I have to think of how quickly the garde manger will be able to plate them for service. They are responsible for all of our plated desserts at the restaurant. I have to be mindful of how many components my desserts have so as to not slow down the pace of service. If I have a dessert on the menu that is a bit more refined and requires a more complex plate up, I will make the other two desserts on the menu a bit more simplified. I try to balance it out. My style of desserts are also more on the minimalist side so it works out in the end.

You’ve mentioned the importance of playing with textures and temperatures in your desserts. How do you achieve the perfect balance in a dish like your chocolate mesquite cake with candied kumquats?

I achieve the perfect balance by trying the desserts multiple times before it actually makes its way on the dessert menu. I will also have the chef, sous chef, and most of the staff try my desserts and listen to any feedback. There’s usually an agreement if something is missing, whether it’s a textural component or a temperature contrast.

Sustainability is becoming increasingly important in the culinary world. How do you incorporate sustainable practices into your pastry creations?

In our kitchen, we try to source ingredients locally and seasonally as much as we can. I’m also conscious about the amount of food waste we create, and have been trying to reduce it by buying what is only needed and by making enough products that will sell. It’s heartbreaking to see the amount of food that gets thrown out due to spoilage.

What advice would you give to aspiring pastry chefs looking to make a mark with innovative and regionally inspired desserts?

Keep going! Don’t stop doing what you do best! And don’t let anyone tell you that what you are doing is not good enough. We often compare ourselves to one another when all that matters is what you are doing. You are in competition with only yourself.

Your career has been marked by significant accolades, including being a James Beard finalist. How do these recognitions impact your approach to your work and future goals?

All the recognition I’m receiving has given me even more motivation to push myself creatively. I want to keep both the pastry menu in the morning, and the dessert menu in the evening new and exciting by changing it more often. I feel as though my career is at an all time high, and I don’t want to slow down anytime soon.

Looking back at your career, what are you most proud of, and what legacy do you hope to leave in the world of pastry arts?

I would be lying if I didn’t say that I was most proud of the James Beard nominations I have received. I’m also proud of all that I’ve accomplished at Valentine in the three short years that I’ve been there.  I’m also very proud of my pastry team. I wouldn’t be where I’m at currently without them. They really put in the work day in and day out.

I hope to leave behind a legacy of being one of the first pastry chefs in Arizona to really showcase the native ingredients of the Southwest in my desserts and pastries. I haven’t seen many do it yet, but I hope to see more of it in the future.

(This article appeared in the Summer 2024 issue of Pastry Arts Magazine)