West African Ingredients in Modern and Innovative Pastry

By Joseph Odoom

Unlocking the Rich Flavors of West Africa

Pastry Pantry

Just as the African continent is influencing many of the world’s trends in fashion, music and other cultural genres, the food scene there is also on the rise, as people discover the distinctive tastes, textures and flavors that make the continent’s cuisine unique. Stretching from the arid Sahel in the north to the lush rainforests along the Atlantic coast, West Africa, in particular, is a patchwork of porous nations brought together by interrelated languages, cuisines, religions and politics. Known for its rich, vibrant food culture, West Africa utilizes versatile ingredients with complex flavors that offer a fresh twist to bakers seeking a taste of something extraordinary. From nutty egusi seeds to umami-rich fermented locust beans, West African ingredients can add a modern flair and also a cultural significance to a dish. Walk with me and let’s delve into some of the West African ingredients that can bring pizzazz to your pastry items.

Egusi Seeds

Egusi is the name for many species of cucurbits (melons, watermelons and gourds) whose seeds can bring life to pastries. Also known as agushi, egusi bara, gusi abara or bitter apple, egusi is used primarily in West Africa for its de-hulled seeds that thicken soups as flour would. Bearing similarities to almond seeds, they make a great snack if you eat them whole. With their high oil content, they can also make a great paste, like peanut butter, though egusi exhibits more pronounced and nuttier flavor. It works equally well as a praline filling for bonbons and a great way to add crunch to baked items. Its unique flavor profile also allows it to pair perfectly well with caramel, dark chocolate and coffee.

Dawadawa

Dawadawa is an aromatic seasoning, made from locust beans and widely used in preparing soups and stews across West Africa. Its round spheres consist of individual seeds that add a certain umami to dishes. While Hausas, who are located mostly in southern Niger and northern Nigeria, refer to the seasoning as dawadawa, it is called iru by Yorubas, ogiri by Igbos and eware among the Edo people of Nigeria, who also sometimes refer to it as iru, as well. Dawadawa lives on the Parkia biglobosa tree, which grows in a long belt from the Atlantic coast of Senegal through southern Sudan and into northern Uganda. The cake-like structure of the beans after fermentation has a pungent smell when fresh, but the aroma subsides during the cooking process to deliver deep, savory flavor. When it comes to pastry, you can think of dawadawa as being pungent like truffles or miso. It works surprisingly well with sweet pastries. Flavors such as dark roasted coffee are complete flavor bombs with dawadawa and chocolate. Also consider a dawadawa chocolate plantain cake.

Palm Oil

The main source of palm oil is the elaris guineensis tree or the palm-nut tree. It is native to the countries of West and Southwest Africa, including Angola, Gabon, Liberia, Sierra Leone, Nigeria and others. The palm fruit consists of a red pulp surrounding the palm kernel that is crushed to produce a liquid oil that tastes earthy, nutty, buttery and sometimes sweet. The oil extracted from the pulp is a staple in West African cooking and has been for centuries. It has a distinctive color that appears to be something between red and deep orange. It is an excellent substitute for butter and other oils and is both vegan-friendly and vegetarian-friendly.

Prekese

Prekese is the spice’s name in the Twi language of Ghana, but in the Igbo language of Nigeria, it’s known as uhio. Other names include aiden fruit or “soup perfume,” which tells you exactly how people use it. The moment you pick up a pod of prekese, you’ll notice its strong scent, reminiscent of vanilla and brown sugar with a hint of licorice. Prekese adds fragrance and a mild sweetness to savory stews as well as drinks. It also lends itself well to desserts. Its natural sweetness can be enhanced by the addition of sugar, especially in recipes that involve boiling liquid. A beautiful way to bring out its essence is to torch it lightly, allowing the release of its flavorful oils.

Fonio

An ancient grain that has been around as long as man can remember, fonio is a type of millet that has a nutty flavor, a cross between couscous and quinoa in both appearance and texture. It has been cultivated in West Africa for thousands of years. Traditionally, people eat it as a porridge or when it is ground into flour and used in making starchy dumplings. In recent times, it has become a favorite in salads and stews. It is a great substitute for gluten- free flour. It is also very nutritious because of two amino acids, cystine and methionine, that make it a favorite in bread among diabetics who are gluten-intolerant or have celiac disease.

Joseph Odoom has always been connected to his Ghanaian roots. He is a culinary ambassador for Afro-fusion cuisine, combining traditional Ghanaian ingredients with modern sophistication; stimulating taste buds while evoking a sense of nostalgia. He was the winner of DSTV Honey’s first House of Chefs contest in 2021 and he is currently Head Chef at Momi restaurant in Amsterdam.

(This article appeared in the Winter 2025 issue of Pastry Arts Magazine)