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HomeGeneralSurviving Covid-19: Pivots, Lessons and Advice from Dessert Professionals Thriving During Unprecedented...

Surviving Covid-19: Pivots, Lessons and Advice from Dessert Professionals Thriving During Unprecedented times

(This article appeared in the Summer 2020 issue of Pastry Arts Magazine)

By: Shawn Wenner

According to the American Hotel and Lodging Association, the hospitality and leisure industry has lost as many jobs as construction, government, manufacturing, retail, education & health services – combined. The Bureau of Labor Statistics reported that 7.7 million hospitality and leisure jobs were lost in April. Furthermore, McKinsey & Company predicts that recovery to pre-COVID-19 levels could take until 2023 or later. As scary of a thought as that might be, some have found a way to thrive – a foreign idea given the current state of the world, but a reality nonetheless. After all, Yin and Yang can’t exist without the other, right? In our cover story this month, we connected with a diverse set of dessert professionals. From pastry chefs to chocolatiers, frozen dessert professionals, and professional bakers, it was our mission to uncover ways they’ve pivoted their operation or business to not only stay afloat, but thrive in the rapidly-shifting world. Along the way, we had them share both difficult lessons learned and advice for others to find success during the global pandemic.

Raul Porto, President; Beatriz Porto, Vice President of Community Relations; Margarita Navarro, Vice President of Catering and Custom Cakes Porto’s Bakery (multiple locations in CA)

The COVID-19 Pivot

Early on, we suspended dine-in before it was mandated, and simplified our bakery and café menu offerings substantially to reduce production efforts and maximize ease of shifts. We simultaneously reinforced and emphasized our internal safety and health protocols and procedures, along with those required by the CDC, state, and local agencies. As with many in the industry, we had to adjust operations day to day, sometimes even hour to hour. We ultimately decided to discontinue takeout service and pivot our operations to contactless ordering, payment, and curbside pickup beginning March 23rd. Our guests have been able to place orders and make payments through our site, portosbakery.com, or by calling our bakeries. By the end of June, our bakeries began a phased reopening approach, opening one location at a time for walk-in takeout. The safety of our team, our guests, and our communities remains our highest priority. We will follow, and in most cases exceed, all local, state and CDC guidelines to ensure we keep everyone as safe and healthy as possible while still welcoming our guests and reopening our doors in a welcoming and warm environment.

Pandemic Lesson

The most valuable lesson was learning to make changes in a very rapid way. In the past, we would always take time to adapt to change, being more cautious in making menu and operational changes. Moving forward, we will absolutely work differently as we take what we have learned and continue to learn from the situation. By abbreviating our menu, we realized we had an emotional attachment to a lot of menu items that were labor-intensive. Condensing the menu allowed us to revisit a lot of these cakes and pastries and rework them to allow for easier shifts for our team and a more streamlined approach for our guests.

Burbank, CA – Oct. 21: Burbank: Lifestyle, Employees and Food at Porto’s Bakery on October 21, 2017. (Brian Feinzimer/Fein Image)

Advice for Others

Always prepare for the worst-case scenario, and have a strategy and a plan (A, B, and C) of what could happen. Also, have enough funds (for at least a few months) so that you can survive an unexpected closure to allow for no interruptions in business and payroll. Be flexible and open enough to learn how to adapt and disconnect from emotion to be able to make strategic business decisions; we went from thousands of customers a day for dine-in to curbside/in-car pickup only within three days. Know your business, know your customer base, and surround yourself with a team you trust that can help guide you into the new territory as seamlessly as possible. If anyone was able to survive these unprecedented times, there’s nothing that can stop you now. Keep pushing forward and keep learning. Never stop learning or being curious about how to improve and how to adapt to change.

Madeline Lanciani, Owner
Duane Park Patisserie, New York, NY

The COVID-19 Pivot

Prior to the shutdown of most businesses in NYC, 55 percent of my business was “event-based” (catering, corporate, weddings, etc.), 42 percent was over the counter, and 3 percent was through the website. Events evaporated immediately. Sixty percent of my neighborhood clientele either moved to their country houses or their offices were shut down. But we noticed a large inquiry increase from all our customer base for our products that we could ship, both for individual consumption and for gift-giving. I started to promote on our social media sites the products that we make and ship. To our delight, the public was eager for delicious hand-made treats to enjoy, or to give, that could be ordered with a few clicks. Our website business increased by 500 percent. I live in my company’s neighborhood and became aware that local customers who, for whatever reasons, stayed in the neighborhood, were wanting to buy products other than pastries and treats. There were very few places to get any savories, so I decided to draw on my background as a culinary chef and produce portable savories using the bread products we already made – croissants, brioche, etc. I developed a savory menu of “grab and go” items. As a result of the new product offerings, over-the-counter sales declined only 27 percent (compared to 50-80 percent of other local “pickup and delivery” businesses). I also decided to offer free local delivery. The total overall loss from our previous year for an equivalent five-week period was only 36 percent, and I was able to bring back 70 percent of my staff.

Pandemic Lesson

The most important lesson for me and my company was that everyone likes and wants treats, in good times and in bad. More and more people want artisanal natural treats and are willing to pay a premium for them. Treats are (almost) disaster-proof. I also learned to listen to all the voices of my customer base. Also, keep your staff “invested” in the company. Let them know they are a part of the process, because when the company does well, everyone does well. Finally, be nimble enough to literally “pivot.”

Advice for Others

Keep your products desirable and accessible for a spectrum of consumers. Continually let your customers know via social media, in person, or by emails, how much you appreciate their business. In these times, most people love to know they are helpful – they want to be valued – so let them know how much.

Dana Herbert, Owner
Desserts by Dana, Newark, DE

The COVID-19 Pivot

In the beginning, we got hit square between the eyes. One day we were bountiful, and the next, our retail came to a screeching halt, along with 30 weddings moved or displaced, and another 40-50 in limbo. Most people think of a wedding as a one cake event, but we do bridal showers, bachelorette treats, groom cakes, wedding cakes, favors, and mini desserts for venues of weddings. That’s six different touchpoints for one grand occasion – all important to the business. COVID-19 forced Desserts By Dana to pivot quickly. Initially, we had to control payroll. We truncated our hours and focused on peak times. Secondly, we furloughed some employees so they could get unemployment. Third, we focused on retail and delivery services and made the things that most people craved. We also aligned with DoorDash, Uber Eats, and Grubhub. Finally, we utilized our online platform and held cooking classes to supplement what was missing.

Pandemic Lesson

In this COVID-19 environment, we learned what trimming the fat really meant. We learned what things were our meat and potatoes, and what were our bells and whistles. Sometimes we think something is great, and we even attach an unrealistic value, until it’s under a microscope. We can then determine if it yields fruit, just breaks even, or sucks the life out of the business. It really makes you think of where you are spending your dollars.

Advice for Others

Having successfully navigated through COVID-19, my advice is to put things under a microscope. Make sure whatever you are doing is a definite benefit to your business, and not a “maybe.” Because “maybe” cannot be accurately quantified. You have to learn to run the equations in reverse – call it looking behind the veil. Secondly, sell what you sell best. In this environment, at a minimum, you have to tread water. Trends are great and can require attention, but focus on the core items that sell extremely well, and make brand ambassadors out of your customers. If it’s great, they will do the advertising for you. Thirdly, if you are gonna create something new and go outside the box, make sure that it’s something with a low cost or low overhead. Everything I navigated was with the help of the big guy, my Lord and my savior. Right now with the climate in America being what it is, we are facing a pandemic and an uproar for equality. Right now, we have to lean on our faith in God and be benevolent to our fellow man. Stress levels are high, and we must take time to breathe, time to understand everyone’s perspectives, and love one another just as the Creator loves us.

David Menkes, Owner
LetterPress Chocolate, Los Angeles, CA

The COVID-19 Pivot

Our main revenue stream came from the tours we gave to the public. Under the health department guidelines in Los Angeles, we could continue to operate as long as we weren’t offering any in-room dining. This effectively ended our tour program, but we were able to switch to curbside pickup, and we offered free nationwide shipping. As it was our sixth anniversary, we created a YouTube video giving a virtual tour after each year, starting from our humble beginnings in our tiny apartment to moving into a commercial kitchen and retail space, which is where we’re at now. The response was amazing, and our customers really stepped up and supported us. Our online sales covered what we lost from giving tours. We use Square for our POS, and we received an email about setting up curbside pickup through their partner Weebly. We created an online menu and incentivized our customers with a discount to test out the new platform. It was quickly adopted, and now we use it exclusively for curbside pickup. Since it is just my wife Corey and I running the factory, we closed our retail shop to the public because if we were to get sick, we would have to shut down. We started making ice cream last year, and our number one request from customers was to sell pints instead of scoops. We used our shutdown time in March to quickly pivot to focusing on ice cream pints and offered those for curbside pickup, which drove sales for our other chocolate products such as our single-origin dark chocolate bars.

Another thing we started offering was our Stay Home With Chocolate series. Customers could either get a set of chocolate bars shipped or picked up, and we’d do a virtual Zoom tasting where we would discuss the background of each origin, and taste along with the chocolate experience company Chocotastery, based out of New Jersey. We recorded the videos, so anyone could follow along at home at their leisure, and posted the tastings on YouTube afterward.

Pandemic Lesson

The lesson was that we had to quickly pivot to the changing dynamic of people having to stay home but still wanting to experience chocolate. Extending the LetterPress Chocolate experience to our customers’ homes was essential with our retail store closed to the public. We love sharing our story and chocolate with people, and offering at-home guided tastings have been key to that. I think for any business to survive, you have to look at every possible revenue stream and constantly explore new possibilities.

Advice for Others

Always have multiple revenue streams and be prepared to pivot to what the market is asking for. We noticed a huge spike in curbside pickup sales with the release of our ice cream pints, and a huge response from online orders with our Stay Home With Chocolate virtual tastings.

Nick Farkas, Co-Founder
Churriño Gourmet Dessert, Long Beach, CA

The COVID-19 Pivot

COVID-19 forced us to look at our business, product, and services through new lenses. After the shutdown, we had to reassess our business to come up with new ways of generating revenue and new ways of delivering the Churriño experience to our clients. With sales drastically dropping due to the lack of foot traffic, we had to rely on social media campaigns to advertise our products (churros) and services. Furthermore, we decided to think outside of the box, and we partnered with a local artist to create an exclusive line of candles to supplement our sales and numbers. The online campaigns and the introduction of a new segment of products were very successful, considering the environment we were living in at the time. It kept our doors open during the shutdown.

Also, the experience factor was an aspect of our business, and we wanted to keep delivering that during COVID-19. So, for every to-go or online order, we added a hand-written note to our clients thanking them for their support and spreading words of love and kindness during such a dark time. Also, we gifted clients with house-made goodies like Oreo Fudge and Fruity Pebble Dark Chocolate Fudge, and we attached the recipe to create at home. This initiative was a game-changer to our business. It assisted us in spreading the personal Churriño experience we were known for.

Pandemic Lesson

While challenging, the COVID-19 shutdown has pushed us as entrepreneurs to relearn and reinvent our businesses. It tested our limits and forced us to rely on our communities more than ever. As a new business, we learned that building a community around our business is imperative to our success now and then. Consequently, we continue focusing on our community and are launching a new social campaign for Pride Month. In June, we launched a new holographic pride sticker, voted on by our social media followers, and 20 percent of the sales proceeds will be going to the local LGBTQ center. All these philanthropic initiatives allow us to support the community we rely on and gain their respect, acceptance, and support.

Advice for Others

There is no right or wrong way of navigating through such an unprecedented time. As entrepreneurs, we can only do our best. Sometimes that means taking a step back to assess the circumstances and pivoting to stay in business and continuing to inspire your consumers and community. Remember, you are the one who knows the essence of your business best.

Also, don’t hesitate to ask for help. As leaders, you should be able to ask for help and guidance from mentors, other businesses, and your community. Your support system will be extremely important to your success.

Lastly, do not be afraid of exploring new and challenging avenues. For instance, our business took a turn, and we introduced new products completely outside of our line of services. While risky, the new approach paid off and assisted us in keeping our business open.

Yeli Marshall
Chief Chocolate Officer
Yelibelly Chocolates, Addison, TX

The COVID-19 Pivot

We pivoted once I recognized our main stream of income was going to disappear. Our specialty has been logo chocolates and confections and chocolate making classes. The majority of our custom chocolates has been sold through the special events industry (weddings and private events) and as corporate gifts. When large group gatherings were cancelled, our future sales dried up, and we lost $75K overnight. It was terrifying that we did not have another outlet that made the same amount of money.

We needed to find another way to sell our chocolate fast, so our pivot plan was threefold. First, get our chocolate to consumers directly. So we needed to increase our presence online and drive sales to the website. Second, we needed to jump into the wholesale market. We have unique confections (one with a patent-pending) that are not selling in many stores. We worked to get those confections into florists, coffee shops, boutique stores, and more. Third, we took our chocolate making classes online and into the homes of everyone. Clients could order an ingredient box filled with everything needed to hold a truffle or French mendiant making class at home. We filmed private videos for them to follow at their own pace.

Pandemic Lesson

We put too much of our product emphasis in one area – special events – and we should have diversified. By changing our sales focus to include other outlets like wholesale, and expanding our online sales, we were able to keep sales coming. We will continue selling online and work to expand our wholesale stockists. We even hired a wholesale sales manager during the pandemic. Now, when special events start to return, that income will just be the icing on the cake.

Advice for Others

Involve your whole team in any pivot. I was never ready to throw in the towel, but I thought I would need to shoulder the transition that we needed to make. Instead, I approached my whole team and said, “What do you suggest we do from here?” By bringing them into the conversation, listening, and trying their suggestions, I am demonstrating how important they are to our total success.

Monitor your bank reserves closely. Do not ignore what your financials are telling you. You should have at least three months of operating expenses in the bank, if possible. And don’t put all of your sales focus into one area. Diversify your sales portfolio. If you are a traditional retail storefront – consider wholesale, corporate sales, etc.

Finally, do not give up! Being an entrepreneur is terrifying every day. It’s never going to change. Embrace it and enjoy it or go back to the corporate cube farm and feel safe again.

Nicole Foster, Co-Founder
Cajou Creamery, Baltimore, MD

The COVID-19 Pivot

Our foodservice business dried up when restaurants and hotels were ordered to close. To maintain our relationships with our customers and keep the business afloat, we had to pivot from foodservice distribution and created an online ordering and contact-free home delivery service. We launched our “Porch Drop” home delivery program in mid-May, with the goal of delivering a few orders per week to some of our loyal customers. The response was overwhelming. Since our launch, we have delivered almost 1000 pints to people sheltering at home. This resulted in more than a 3000 percent increase in revenue over the previous month.

Pandemic Lesson

A professional lesson that we learned was to remain authentic and nimble. We believe that is the key to conscious leadership. Our product is steeped in our authenticity. It is built on our passion for good food and travel. It is fueled by our love of connection and desire to be part of a thriving, healthy community in Baltimore. When the pandemic hit, we went back to what makes us tick. Accommodating and connecting with our customers came naturally, and once we figured out a strategy, we went for it. When we open our new shop this fall, we will continue to remain nimble and authentic, by remaining in compliance with fluid public health protocols, while also delivering warm, friendly customer service for which we have become known.

We were also inspired by the generosity of spirit and action in our Baltimore community. During the pandemic, everyone swiftly rallied around one another. We partnered with other dessert companies to provide a sweet respite to essential health care workers. Moving forward, we will continue exploring opportunities for collaboration and cross-promotion with other similarly focused dessert entrepreneurs.

Advice for Others

Look for possibility in the struggle. At first blush, adverse situations may seem insurmountable. However, there is always opportunity in an adverse situation if you look for it. It is a mind shift. We try to focus on abundant possibilities.

Pichet Ong
Pastry Chef & Operating Partner
Mama Chang and Q by Peter Chang, Fairfax, VA

The COVID-19 Pivot

In 2009 I closed my flagship p*ong in New York and focused on more casual concepts. Within pastry, I also primarily capitalized on a carryout model. With the arrival of COVID-19, I worked on expanding this format for an extended term, basing it primarily on a return to the Chinese-American carryout model. Creatively, in the last decade, I’ve moved away from plated desserts with separate components to cakes, tarts, or handhelds. In January 2020, when we started to see a drop in Asia’s dine-in business, we quickly refocused the execution to “to-go” packaging family group meals, catering, and subscriptions. This became the model for the USA later in March. My desserts at Brothers and Sisters at The LINE Hotel D.C. have always been available online and designed to-go. The business was recalibrated to produce more than 4000 cakes a year prepared with a streamlined team in a kitchen similar in size to a home kitchen. It took time to build up the business, but email, phone, and social media platforms such as Instagram, WeChat, and Line, also enabled many customers to order homemade cakes from me directly. Simultaneously, all menus from the Q by Peter Chang and Mama Chang focused on the “carry out” aspect of the business as our dining rooms closed and the nation shut down. Menu offerings, portions and presentations and recipes were all adjusted in with the packaging in mind. We positioned ourselves to safely continue and build up the sudden drop of 18 percent of business to 100 percent without much delay.

Pandemic Lesson

In the last decade, with the lack of certainty on a constant business due to fickle trends, upcharges in fixed costs (especially rent and mandate taxes), I have learned that it is imperative to keep your business streamlined and “essential” with staffing, costs, equipment, and space. Much like life’s challenges, our industry is very fluid. Remaining mentally flexible, with costs in check, we are poised to adapt and adopt a new model – both financially and creatively.

While I’ve always emphasized quality ingredients in baking, I’ve always been frugal and believe in being sustainable. I try to use the whole ingredient, if possible. A basic pantry staple, vanilla, has gone up in price for quite some time now. It never became a problem for me since I use whole beans – and not just pods – to produce different types of flavoring from pulverizing whole beans to infuse with liquid to re-drying it and grinding it with sugar. I’ve also been more reliant upon using whole citrus, dehydrated fruits, and spices to season baked goods. Or cooking sugar to caramel to concentrate the flavors more through reducing the water content. Making salted caramel butter is a technique I’ve applied to something as simple as chocolate chip cookies for over two decades. Essentially, these are ways of stretching the dollar by getting maximum yield on the products. As prices of ingredients change quickly with supply and demand, I experiment with using alternatives such as oil vs. butter (better for chiffon!), making coconut or oatmeal flour vs. almond and pistachio. We all know that many kitchens operate with high waste, perhaps experimenting with different recipes so that no part of food is discarded, such as incorporating egg yolks in a different component of the item when making an egg white-based recipe.  Each signature cake on the menu at the Line hotel is made with this “no waste” philosophy in mind. If circles are cut out from sheet pan baked cake, trimmings are used somewhere else when assembling the cake. The recipes are precisely specked-out to yield no waste. This was something that should’ve been implemented pre-COVID. But now it seems to matter more than ever – time to make that change.

Advice for Others

Keep doing what you love to do! I am fortunate to work in a genre that thrives during an economic depression and crisis. Note how much baking is happening at home — sourdough! Flour and yeast shortage! Pastry, baking, and desserts are a source of comfort and joy in achievement. During the pioneer period, pies were commonly eaten at breakfast. And anyone who knows me knows my daily ritual begins with something sweet every day – thanks to my dad.  So let’s eat cake!

Kisha Moore
Hummingbird Macarons & Desserts, Norfolk, VA

The COVID-19 Pivot

When the pandemic hit, my company was in the middle of our buildout for our new location. We were baking out of a local culinary school, the Culinary Institute of Virginia, and set up a pop-up in a coffee shop, Cure Coffeehouse, to keep the income going. When COVID-19 hit, we were no longer able to continue to use the school’s facilities, nor the coffee shop. This was a real defining moment, deciding to keep moving forward or putting the project on hold. I prayed a lot! I decided giving up was not an option for me. I didn’t know how, but I believed we could continue. I told my team I would do whatever I could to keep them employed. They were in agreement, so we kept going. I applied for so many grants, and at one pay period when I needed extra funds, a grant from VA 30 Day Fund came through to help cover payroll costs, and eventually, the PPP to keep us afloat.

Pandemic Lesson

A pandemic hitting in the midst of a buildout was one of the most stressful times of my life! Everywhere I turned, there were questions needing answers, and I was exhausted because so much was in flux. The thing is, not knowing caused me to seek answers. Whether in a pandemic or not, opportunity doesn’t always come knocking at your door. You have to find the answers and opportunities you are seeking, and it’s okay to ask for help. It’s okay to need answers, yet not have them – just breathe. You need family, friends, and good colleagues, so keep them close. Community is important, don’t go it alone. I learned how to run my company leaner and more efficiently.

Advice for Others

Opening and running a company really is like no other endeavor. The journey is fraught with challenges, and at each point you will make a decision. Will you continue, reassess, or transition to something else? Entrepreneurship is an adventure, so buckle up for the ride and enjoy the process each step of the way. You will experience some difficulty and much joy. The experiences learned will last a lifetime.

Devin Braddock, Executive Pastry Chef
Ariete and Nave, Miami, FL

The COVID-19 Pivot

As soon as the reality hit that we would have to close our doors, my mind went into high gear. I started to worry that my job might not be essential, so I stayed up all night, jotting down what my team’s next moves would be. I knew Chef Michael Beltran wouldn’t want to stop cooking, and neither did I. I decided to use that time to really develop a bread program, since bread was becoming scarce at grocery stores. We started selling PB+J Kits for kids who weren’t attending school. Our prices became much more reasonable. We started pumping out comfort foods and ice creams. That’s what I felt people really needed at the time, comfort.

Pandemic Lesson

Never take your job for granted. There are a lot of people out of work right now, so be grateful if you are still working. Especially if you get to do something you love!

Advice for Others

I would give the same advice before COVID-19, but I’d say keep your head up. Working in the foodservice industry is already very difficult on the mind and body, and now more than ever it is difficult to stay positive with the current state of the world. The key really is to focus on your craft, stay as positive as you can, and if all else fails, cry in the walk-in if you need to.

One great thing about our industry is that a lot of us spend most of our time with co-workers, and those co-workers really become family. I can’t tell you how many long talks I’ve had with my work family in the last couple of months. There have been laughs, tears, and anger. It’s an emotional time. But I think it’s important to remember to keep the dialogue open. I think now more than ever, it’s important that we go into the reopening of businesses knowing that we have each other to lean on. You are not alone.

David Guas, Owner
Bayou Bakery, Coffee Bar & Eatery

The COVID-19 Pivot

As a New Orleans native, I am familiar with the importance of fast-acting relief, which is why I immediately launched a rapid response effort to feed students and their families affected by school closures. Over 8,000 children are reliant on the public school meal program in Arlington county. The initiative evolved into a long-term and wider-reaching effort, Chefs Feeding Families, in partnership with the non-profit organization Real Food For Kids. Due to increasing demand and need, we grew the project to additional distribution sites in the region. Chefs Feeding Families provides funding for food, supplies, and restaurant staff to feed as many families as possible, and creates employment opportunities within the restaurant community.

I temporarily closed the doors to ‘call-in, carryout’ service at my establishment, Bayou Bakery, Coffee Bar & Eatery, to focus on this initiative. I felt it was important to take every precaution and protect the safety of my staff and our patrons. The support for our carryout service was tremendous and heartwarming, but remaining open was also no longer sustainable. As a small business that values local sourcing, our longevity affects the ‘survival’ of our vendors, as well as our staff. But we also knew when to say ‘enough,’ for now. Currently, we are renovating for an updated and improved work environment for our team.

Pandemic Lesson

Throughout this entire pandemic, we’ve tried to cultivate a culture of positivity – even if it’s something small, like warmly greeting people. I like to think people can tell when you’re smiling – even with a mask on! Beyond health and safety practices – operationally, when we reopen, we’ll be debuting a new website that will also offer online ordering of our menu.

I also felt it was important to stay connected to guests during this time. In that spirit, I launched a weekly virtual cooking demo featuring a different recipe every Friday at 12 PM across Bayou Bakery’s social media handles. Additionally, I launched the self-made web docu-series “Forbidden Feasts.” The eight-episode travelogue follows as I visit Cuba and retrace the footsteps of my father, grandfather, and great-uncle, Dr. Rafael Guas Inclan. Sharing personal footage from my trips to Cuba with my Cuban-born father has fostered such a meaningful connection with my guests. At Bayou Bakery, I pay tribute to my heritage with Havana-style specials – like our flaky Pastelitos with Guava Cream Cheese – sharing the backstory of these ancestral dishes and desserts has been a really rewarding experience that gives the menu new meaning.

Advice for Others

I really threw my energy into launching Chefs Feeding Families – it was important to find a way to continue to serve our community and keep on as much staff as possible, even if the Bayou Bakery itself was temporarily closing. Every restaurant, baker, and chef is facing a unique set of challenges, but I’ve found the path forward begins by being community conscious.

Staff
Staff
Pastry Arts Magazine is the new resource for pastry & baking professionals designed to inspire, educate and connect the pastry community as an informational conduit spotlighting the trade.

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