Ingredients such as sago, milk, rice and gulab jamun are popular in India and have become essential elements of the culinary experience. As an Indian pastry chef, I wanted to bring these ingredients to the forefront and merge them with modern pastry techniques, elevating these traditional flavors to a global level.
One unique ingredient I’ve incorporated into this pastry is nannari, also known as Indian sarsaparilla. With its distinctive flavor profile, this indigenous herb is traditionally used for making cooling beverages and aiding in digestion.
By using this ingredient, I aim to celebrate the rich flavors of Indian cuisine, demonstrating their timeless adaptability in contemporary culinary applications.
Yield: 2 tarts
Almond Sugar Crust
• 100 g all-purpose flour
• 38 g whole wheat flour
• 17.5 g almond flour
• 2 g salt
• 8 g corn starch
• 77.5 g unsalted butter, chilled and cubed
• 50 g confectioners’ sugar
• 20 g milk
• 20 g cocoa butter, melted (for brushing)
1. Combine the all-purpose, wheat and almond flours with the salt and cornstarch in a large bowl.
2. Rub the butter into these dry ingredients until the mixture resembles coarse sand.
3. Add the confectioners’ sugar and mix until fully combined.
4. Gradually add the milk and mix until a rough dough forms.
5. Chill the dough until firm.
6. Roll the dough out to a thickness of 2 mm (1/16 inch).
7. Line fluted tart rings with the dough and chill for 1 hour.
8. Blind bake at 325°F (160°C) for 10 minutes or until the tart shells are evenly browned.
9. Once the dough is baked, allow the tart shells to cool. Brush the insides with melted cocoa butter to maintain crispness.
Rice and Sago Kheer
• 100 g rice, washed and soaked for 3 hours
• 100 g sago pearls, washed and soaked for 3 hours
• 3-4 strands of saffron
• 2 g ground cardamom
• 30 g condensed milk
• 600 g whole milk
• 50 g heavy cream
1. Strain the soaked rice and sago. Boil each separately in fresh water until tender, then set aside. The rice and the sago have different cooking times, so test them for doneness before draining.
2. Add the saffron and cardamom powder to the cooked sago.
3. In a saucepan, combine the milk, condensed milk and cream. Bring to a boil and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the mixture thickens to the consistency of crème anglaise. It will have reduced by about 40% by the time it is done. The process will take approximately 10-15 minutes on medium heat.
4. Combine the cooked rice and sago and stir in the milk mixture.
5. Adjust the sweetness to taste.
Nannari Syrup
• 137 g granulated sugar
• 100 g water
• 1 g ground cardamom
• 3-4 strands of saffron
• 5 g Nannari root
1. Combine all the ingredients in a saucepan and heat until the mixture begins to boil.
2. Cover the saucepan and allow the flavors to infuse for at least 4 hours before straining.
Gulab Jamun
• 10 g yogurt
• 30 g milk
• 8 g ghee (clarified butter)
• 65 g non-fat milk powder
• 20 g all-purpose flour
• 15 g mawa (milk solids)
• 0.5 g salt
• 0.5 g baking soda
1. In a bowl, mix the yogurt, milk, ghee and milk powder until a paste forms.
2. Gradually add the dry ingredients and mix until a smooth dough forms.
3. Shape the dough into balls of 2 grams each and cover with a damp towel to prevent drying out.
4. Heat enough ghee to fill a deep pot about halfway. When the temperature has reached 140°C (284°F), fry the Gulab- Jamun balls until golden brown.
5. Upon removing them from the oil, immediately transfer the Gulab Jamuns into the nannari syrup to soak.
6. Let the Gulab Jamuns rest in the syrup for at least 3 hours before serving.
Nannari Melons
• 5 g Nannari root
• 200 g water
• 1 musk melon
1. Combine the nannari root and water in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Let the mixture cool.
2. Using a melon baller, scoop the flesh from the musk melon.
3. Place the melon balls into the cooled nannari water and let them soak for at least 1 hour.
Assembly
• Neutral glaze
• Edible flowers
1. Fill the tart shells with the rice and sago kheer, leaving about 5% of the shell unfilled.
2. Chill the tarts for 10 minutes to set.
3. Remove the Gulab Jamuns and nannari melons from their soaking liquids. Place them on a paper towel to absorb any excess liquid.
4. Arrange the Gulab Jamuns and nannari melons on top of the tarts, alternating them in a circular pattern, starting from the outside and working toward the center.
5. Brush the surface of the tart with neutral glaze for a glossy finish.
6. Garnish with edible flowers, such as Egyptian star flowers and cosmos petals.
Dean Rodrigues
Executive pastry Chef, Academy of Pastry and Culinary Arts, India
Early Influence
I was a very art-oriented kid interested in music, sketching and just creating in general. Being exposed to shows like MasterChef, I was fascinated by the science of pastry and desserts and the precision required to make something so striking and tasty. I realized that food – or pastry, to be more precise – was the perfect medium for me to showcase my art to the world and have a career that would feel like a playground.
Signature Style
I describe my style as “adopt, adapt and evolve.” One of my favorite quotes is Pablo Picasso’s “Learn the rules like a pro so you can break them like an artist.” I enjoy playing around with originals and adding a little bit of my own creativity to them. In this way, I feel it gives the product a personality I relate to and depicts my own artistry.
Inspiration for New Recipes
Inspiration comes in many forms: nature, pop culture references, life experiences, friends, family and sometimes even trends. It does not come from any place specific. My usual thought process behind new dishes is mainly “What if this were pastry?” or “How would people relate to this?” Most of the time, though, it’s “What story can this tell?”
Current Flavor Favorites
My current favorites are Earl Grey and fig. I enjoy the clash of these contrasting flavors and textures. My all-time favorite is any tropical flavor.
These flavor combinations are a result of personal preference while also thinking about what people would enjoy eating.
Production Tip
The key to operating a successful production line is pre-prep. Mis en place can make or break the flow of a kitchen. A chef’s tools are as important as the ingredients, and regular calibration of these ensures that the product quality remains consistent. Standardization of recipes and having a clear plan for the product helps maintain the quality and quantity of any product on any given day. This also helps make production lines more streamlined and oriented towards workspace profit and customer experience.
As a Chef, I feel like a kitchen runs best when the person running the kitchen is operating at 80% energy. This not only keeps them from being burnt out, but it also means that they will have the energy required to push through when there is an emergency.
Technical Tip
During my early days as a pastry chef, I struggled with piping on cakes. I would end up piping very unintelligible words and thus tried to steer away from it. But my mentor back then noticed this and had me practice piping for hours every day! I piped all the alphabets in cursive and capitals repeatedly until I finally got good and now have no problem with it.
As for a tip, repeatedly practicing and keeping in touch with your craft helps improve your techniques, and it eventually turns into muscle memory. For this, understanding your own methods of learning comes in handy. Whether it’s practicing in your free time or watching a video of a technique on a loop, whatever works for you is what you use to your benefit.
Career Advice
Being a pastry chef requires a lot of patience; keeping calm and being solution-oriented are good traits to have. Learning to accept failures and detaching yourself from the product keeps you from being stuck in a loop and helps you move forward. Also, finding a good mentor who resonates with how you envision yourself is a great catalyst to have. This also ensures you are among skilled people and have an environment where you can push yourself harder. Most of all, having respect and discipline towards your craft plays a big role in deciding the longevity of any career.
(This recipe appeared in the Winter 2025 issue of Pastry Arts Magazine)
You must be logged in to post a comment.