Looking Locally for Sustainable Ingredients

by Genevieve Meli

Environmental sustainability. What does that mean to you?

I have always liked the way the U.N. defines the phrase: “The responsible management of natural resources to fulfill current needs without compromising the ability of future generations to meet theirs.” It gives us agency to interpret what is responsible, and to some degree what is possible, for ourselves. But it also reminds us that none of our resources are unlimited, and we must think of both our needs and the needs of those who follow us.

One of the biggest challenges to sustainability in our food systems is the idea that we simply cannot do enough to make an impact. And sure, maybe one pastry chef won’t change the world and slow the effects of climate change or resource management—but I believe one whole generation of pastry chefs can. I hold the belief that small changes lead to lasting impact, and enacting change starts in your own community. In particular, the trees, bushes, and farms producing the food that sustains our passions and careers.

Using local and seasonal products is a win-win for the world and for food professionals. As part of the bigger picture, when we work with local growers or forage wild fruits, vegetables, flowers and herbs, we are reducing our reliance on the global food trade. This means fewer carbon emissions from trucks, trains and boats that carry food across the world, as well as the financial support of local farmers and members of our community.

Sustainably grown food that has a short trip from farm to table is, in general, a better choice. One of the most fundamental food rules that will never steer you wrong is this: fruits and vegetables grown close to your kitchen and picked at the peak of their growing season will taste best. With every day that passes and every mile an ingredient travels, you will experience some loss in flavor or texture that cannot be replaced, even by the most skilled chef.

You may also be surprised by some of the ingredients that grow in your region. Farmers’ markets are a natural place to start, but there are wild growing ingredients that are not typically farmed, whether because of difficulties in transport or short shelf lives. I live on the northeast coast of the United States, where I was born and raised. Nearby, I forage a wild berry, the dogwood kousa berry. Its astringent skin is not of interest to squirrels or other wildlife, and is mostly found crushed beneath our feet on the sidewalk.

The dogwood kousa berry is an incredible ingredient. It has a rosy red color, with a semi-thick skin covered in ridges and small spikes. The skin of the berry is tannic, but inside, the bright orange flesh is jammy and sweet. It is possible to buy these berries commercially, but because they spoil too quickly to be shipped, they are nearly always sold dried.

I follow the philosophy: “if it grows together, it goes together,” and so I love to pair dogwood kousa berries with crisp apples and locally-produced soft cheese. This hyper-local sourcing also allows you to enjoy in-season produce at its absolute freshest, meaning your menu can reflect your place in time.

In my book, Baking an Impact: Small Changes for Sustainable Baking (CIA Press), you’ll find recipes using nutrient-dense and flavor-filled ingredients that I can find within a few hours of my own home throughout the year. I pair sweet snap peas with strawberries, preserve spring flowers in lollipops, and seek the unique flavors of local honeys.

When it comes to creating a menu, I first look at my ingredients. Often, we start with an idea and work backwards to choose the right ingredients. Both strategies work, but when you start with what you have, it means you don’t have to look too far for what you need. Learn more about foraging through local classes or by forming relationships with local foragers. Engage with local farmers to identify ingredients that they may not yet grow due to lack of a market, and perhaps you can be responsible for reinvigorating an heirloom product. Once you know your community, you’ll find a wealth of ingredients.

Genevieve Meli is a certified master baker, certified higher education professional and associate professor of Baking and Pastry Arts, at the Culinary Institute of America. Find out more in her book, Baking an Impact (CIA Press).

Photos courtesy of The Culinary Institute of America

(This article appeared in the Summer 2025 issue of Pastry Arts Magazine)