A Small Bite of Portugal

By AnnMarie Mattila

Portugal is having a moment. While the country has always been a popular European tourist destination, Americans have been flocking to the country in large numbers since 2018, when Lonely Planet designated Portugal as a top-ten place to visit. Tourism from the United States has nearly doubled over the past decade, which has also sparked a stateside interest in Portugal’s culture and food. Portuguese-inspired bakeries are popping up from coast to coast, focusing on the small custard-filled tart that everyone falls in love with: the pastel de nata.

“For many visitors, enjoying a warm pastel de natawith a coffee becomes one of their favorite memories,” says Jeremiah Durate Bills, baker and founder of The Portuguese Baking School. “When they return home, the pastry becomes a way to relive that experience.” And even for those who haven’t traveled there yet, the increased tourism has sparked an interest in Portuguese culture and food. “In many ways, a pastel de nata is the small edible ambassador for Portugal,” he says.

Though pastéis de nata, or natas for short, are among many traditional pastries from the country, it is the experience of taking just a few minutes to enjoy a small, sweet bite that people love so much. Manuel Correia, owner of Nata in New York, explains, “Natas in Portugal are a moment to pause, to take a little break.” He wanted to offer that experience stateside, giving busy customers the chance to step away for just a little bit.

Correia points out that not only is there a growing awareness of natas in general, but that they have an established customer base with Asians and Asian-Americans in certain cities, too. Because though not entirely the same, natas and the popular Cantonese egg tarts are quite similar, featuring a flaky pastry crust and egg-based custard filling. That is no coincidence, as Macau was a Portuguese colony for several centuries.

But what is it about natas that keeps customers coming back? “The magic of a great pastel de nata comes from contrast,” Bills explains. “You have an incredibly crisp, buttery, laminated pastry surrounding a silky custard that is rich, yet delicate. The custard should be caramelized on top, creating those characteristic dark spots that add complexity and depth.” Correia agrees, explaining that the custard filling “should nearly fall, but not fall” when you first bite into it.

Bringing that textural experience to the United States isn’t easy, however. Neither Bills nor Correia inherited a family recipe, so it took both a lot of research to develop their own. And then there are the differences in European and American ingredients. Correia spent about six months in Portugal working with three bakers to develop the recipe using American ingredients. “It was a huge challenge,” he admits, particularly when it came to the flour in the crust. Portuguese flours have a much lower starch content, and he had to test no fewer than six American flours to get the right balance so it would laminate correctly with the butter.

Bills agrees that getting the crust right is challenging, especially for home bakers who try to recreate the pastry, “I think the most important thing to know is store bought puff pastry won’t give you great results,” he says. “You need to make your own puff pastry that is specifically created for natas.” But once that balance is achieved, he adds, natas “offer an unforgettable combination of textures and flavors.”

Correia’s shop only offers natas along with a selection of beverages; it does not serve other pastries. And many similar shops in the United States have a similar model: offering just one main product, but the best version of it they can make. Nata Seattle and Holy Nata in San Francisco are two such businesses that have opened in recent years. They have focused on developing an artisanal product at a slightly larger scale, so they can meet customer demand, but not overextend themselves with a large product assortment.

While Correia is focused on the traditional flavor, recommending a dusting of powdered sugar and cinnamon on top, other shops do branch out with additional flavor offerings. Pistachio, peanut butter and cocoa nib are just a few of the special flavors you may find in other establishments, offering a balance of traditional and trendy. But no matter which you prefer, there’s no doubt that the 18^th century treat is having a very 21st century cultural moment. The next time you need a break, seek out a pastel de nata. They’re increasingly easier to find.

(This article appeared in the Summer 32 issue of Pastry Arts Magazine)