Vanilla: From Vine to Plate by Robert Wemischner

Secrets of a not-so-secret ingredient

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Imagine for a moment that you are surrounded by vines of the only orchid that produces vanilla pods, the start of a long journey from tropical vine to kitchen. And then imagine how that cured pod can flavor everything from sweets to savory, from chocolates, cakes and cookies and ice creams to lobster, duck and more. Like saffron – costly but worth it – vanilla is one of those indispensable ingredients that brings the main flavors of a dish into sharp focus, accentuating fruity notes sometimes, floral notes at others, but always imparting an overarching mellowness and roundness to the dish. A little of the best quality stuff goes a long way.

Perhaps unsurprisingly, given its floral origins, vanilla “blooms” in a dish, whether savory or sweet, murmuring pleasantly in the background but detected in every bit of the dish. Let’s backtrack a bit to appreciate the wonder that is real vanilla.

First, its flavor is due to a miracle of nature made more miraculous by the intervention of man. The fruit of not just any tropical orchid vine – only two out of the 110 vanilla orchid species produce edible vanilla beans, and one, Vanilla tahitensis, is a natural hybrid cousin of the original plant, vanilla planifolia – the magic occurs after the pod has fermented to create that prized perfumed intensity we associate with vanilla paste and extract. But that aroma and taste take time and skill to develop. It takes the vines themselves about four years to mature before they produce the green pod that will become the vanilla we know and love. What’s more, it takes an estimated 600 blossoms pollinated by hand to produce one kilogram of cured beans.

It’s an incontrovertible truth that all the technique in the world cannot make up for the use of inferior-quality ingredients. Think about how pastry chefs seek to wring maximum flavor out of their ingredients so that the end product speaks clearly and deliciously of what has gone into it. One of those critical ingredients is almost surely vanilla. Real high-quality vanilla is a prime example of how an ingredient can lend its presence, not as a supporting cast member, but as the star or the hero of the show. As pastry chef Sherry Yard states, “It deserves to be placed on its own pedestal and stands proudly at the top of the ingredient pyramid.” From someone who has designed the standout desserts for the official Oscar Awards parties, the most gala-of-galas in Hollywood, during her years as Executive Pastry Chef for Wolfgang Puck’s restaurant and catering empire, she certainly knows about using great ingredients in her work. She evokes memories of her work from those years, from her 50-vanilla-bean-flavored ice cream to her Not So Angel Food Cake, served with fragrant fraises de bois. Vanilla in these and more is the not so common denominator in much of her sweet work.

“Using great vanilla makes me appreciate why the quality of ingredients matters. After all, vanilla is the Marilyn Monroe of flavors that’s supported by other ingredients in the dessert. Whether I am using whole bean paste, the extract, or the vanilla bean powder, all of which have their uses in my pastry kitchen, I treat this ingredient with respect, acknowledging the long path from tropical flower to bean. But no matter which one I use, I can count on an alluring complexity making its presence known in the desserts, lending roundness, warmth, and floral notes, anywhere I use it.” She advises: “Treat it with loving care; don’t take it for granted. When it comes to vanilla, there is no compromising.” She adds, “When it comes to vanilla, and I have used a lot of it many forms in my time, sourcing the best growers and processors – whether in Tahiti, Papua New Guinea, Madagascar or Mexico – is key to consistently high-quality results.”

Speak to Farid Azarang, who, with his brother Saeed, owns and operates Artelice Patisserie in Los Angeles, and you will find that his compulsion to use superior vanilla in their products such as cremeux, mousses, and pastry creams is no less fervid than Yard’s. “It simply pays off. Heating vanilla paste with the milk used in my desserts yields the best flavor, and I get more out of less, resulting in a win-win for the bakery’s bottom line and for our customers. To achieve an equally intense flavor, I would have to scrape many whole vanilla beans to infuse into the dairy elements of my desserts, adding to an already labor-intensive process.” He adds, “Slow-baked crisp meringues such as pavlova also get their flavor-defining dose of beautiful vanilla flavor from whole bean vanilla powder added after the meringue has been fully aerated just before baking.”

To add a kind of sweetness to her preparations while emphasizing less sugar, Chef Misuzu Ebihara, owner and Executive Pastry Chef of Suzuya Patisserie in Las Vegas, turns to quality vanilla extract. “I find that it works best for the Chantilly cream used in our Strawberry Short Cake. This is our best seller. To gain maximum impact, I generally like to add the extract to cold preparations. Heating the extract blunts its beautiful flavor. Our offerings draw upon the French classics, but are equally influenced by the delicacy of Japanese cuisine. Everything we sell tends to be light in texture, less sweet and yet still satisfying.” A good portion of the café-bakery business centers around coffee, and Ebihara ups the ante with an intense house-made vanilla syrup which uses both ground vanilla beans and top-quality extract to avoid the “unpleasant alcohol-forward personality” she finds in some extracts. “Using both ground and extract makes the syrup’s flavor deeper and more complex, and therefore it’s not overshadowed by the strength of the coffee flavor in our drinks.”

For James Rosselle, Food Network Challenge first-place winner and baking instructor at College of the Canyons in Santa Clarita, CA, vanilla beans are the star of his custard. “It rounds out the flavor of custard in a Bougatsa, where the creamy mixture is sandwiched between two layers of buttery, flaky phyllo dough, baked to a beautiful golden brown. There’s nothing better or simpler, and the vanilla perfume shines through beautifully. If you want dessert for breakfast, this is your go-to,” he says.

Pastry Chef Hugh Boggs at Merriman’s Hawaii, with multiple locations on the Hawaiian Islands, combines a trio of tropical flavors – pineapple, macadamia nuts and vanilla – in the restaurant’s signature bread pudding, and includes fine vanilla in its dreamy coconut cream pies. He insists on using what is locally grown on each island, sharing company founder Peter Merriman’s philosophy of creating a restaurant that is “simple, family-style and reflective of the multiculturalism of the islands.” Boggs says, “With our Pineapple Bread Pudding, we allow the custard base to age overnight for maximum flavor impact and then gild the lily by serving a scoop of Tahitian vanilla bean ice cream over the warm pudding.” Truly paradise on a plate.

Perry Bates, longtime Executive Chef of Mama’s Fish House on Maui, is following the vision of Floyd and Doris Christenson, the restaurant’s founders, and shares Boggs’ view about the importance of buying local and incorporating ingredients, including vanilla, onto the menu, in everything from savory offerings to sweet endings. Bates says, “The founders believed in offering a farm-to-table and sea-to-table menu way before this became a thing for restaurants everywhere, and part of that farm-to-table concept includes sourcing the vanilla we use. All our ice creams and plating sauces benefit from the use of well-sourced vanilla. Our Liliko’I (passion fruit) Crème Brûlée and signature Polynesian Black Pearl Chocolate Liliko’I Mousse in a pastry seashell, gain immeasurably from the use of vanilla, in all of its forms.”

Experimenting with vanilla in all its myriad forms, from whole beans, split and scraped and vanilla bean powder to already made high quality pastes and extracts, is not only fun and but often revelatory. This process also requires tasting reflectively, paying attention to the dosage of which form is added to a recipe, all of which can lead to some stellar gustatory experiences. Also make note of the processes used in the recipe (including a cold or hot infusion, overnight marination or maceration, among others), and at what point the vanilla is added to a mixture; all of this can lead to the most impactful use of this prized ingredient. If possible, repeat the tastings before arriving at the final version of whatever dessert you are making. Whether it’s a rich custard used in French toast gussied up and served for dessert, crème anglaise, buttery vanilla-scented pound cake, a versatile genoise or a glistening fruit tart with a richly vanilla-forward pastry cream underpinning, vanilla will often be the key that unlocks the dessert, the unifying presence that makes the dessert memorable and complex. It’s the not-so-secret secret ingredient, well worth its cost.

For information on Tahitian Gold vanilla products, visit https://tahitiangoldco.com

Chantilly Cream by Misuzu Ebihara, Suzuya Patisserie, Las Vegas, NV

Yield: 2.2 kg

• 300 g heavy cream, 40%
• 1700 g heavy cream, 36%
• 70 g trehalose
• 155 g confectioners’ sugar
• 27 g Tahitian Gold vanilla extract

1. Beat the creams, trehalose and confectioners’ sugar together until soft peaks form. Add vanilla and continue beating just until the texture is slightly thicker.

Vanilla Syrup by Misuzu Ebihara, Suzuya Patisserie, Las Vegas, NV

Yield: 846 g

• 300 g granulated sugar
• 300 g water
• 66 g Tahitian Gold vanilla paste
• 180 g Tahitian Gold vanilla extract

1. Simmer all ingredients together to extract as much flavor from the paste as possible and cook away the alcohol from the extract. Let cool and refrigerate.

Vanilla Caramel Napoleon by Farid Azarang, Artelice Patisserie, Los Angeles, CA

Yield: 13 to 16 servings

Puff Pastry

• 240 g bread flour
• 760 g all-purpose flour
• 20 g salt
• 20 g white vinegar
• 440 g water
• 100 g unsalted butter for dough plus 800 g for lamination

1. Combine all ingredients except the butter for lamination in a mixer and knead without working the dough too much. Cover the paton (dough base) with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 12 hours.

2. Roll out the dough and place the prepared butter for lamination onto the paton. Give the dough two single turns and then allow to rest in the refrigerator until the dough firms up.

3. Repeat this process until you have given the dough 6 single turns. Roll to 2mm thickness, dock and reserve in the refrigerator.

4. Weigh dough down by covering it with parchment, then a sheet pan. Bake in preheated 375˚F (190˚C) convection oven for 20-25 minutes. Remove weight and continue baking for 10-12 minutes more, until dough is uniformly golden brown. Cool on rack.

Vanilla Cream

• 450 g milk
• 50 g heavy cream
• 15 g Tahitian Gold 3-Fold Madagascar Whole Vanilla Bean Paste
• 90 g granulated sugar
• 90 g egg yolks
• 25 g cornstarch
• 25 g all-purpose flour
• 30 g cocoa butter
• 150 g unsalted butter
• 50 g fish gelatin mass
• 50 g mascarpone

1. In a saucepan, combine the milk, cream and vanilla and heat.

2. In a bowl, mix the sugar with the egg yolks, cornstarch and flour. Add a little bit of hot milk mixture, mix, and then add everything to the milk mixture in the saucepan. Cook until boiling, 2-3 minutes. Add the cocoa butter, butter and gelatin mass. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate.

3. When ready to use, whip the cream mixture and combine with the mascarpone.

Chantilly Whipped Ganache

• 500 g heavy cream
• 2 g Tahitian Gold Madagascar ground vanilla beans
• 130 g Valrhona Opalys white chocolate, melted
• 35 g fish gelatin mass, melted

1. Bring the cream and vanilla to a simmer, then pour over melted white chocolate and melted gelatin mass. Let it sit in the refrigerator overnight.

Soft Caramel

• 160 g granulated sugar
• 160 g heavy cream, heated
• 8 g Tahitian Gold 3-Fold Madagascar Whole Vanilla Bean Paste
• 125 g unsalted butter

1. Make a dry caramel with the sugar and stop the cooking with the heated cream and vanilla. Cook to 226˚F (108°C), then mix in the butter. Cool down.

Assembly

1. Whip the ganache gently and set aside.

2. Cut three pieces of puff pastry into 4.7ʺ x 1.6ʺ (12 x 4 cm). Using a #806 pastry tip, pipe three cylinder on two of the pieces lengthwise, alternating with the soft caramel. Top with the third piece, flip the pastry onto its side, then pipe the ganache on top.

Merriman’s Pineapple Bread Pudding by Hugh Boggs, Pastry Chef, Merriman’s, Hawaii

Yield: two #200 hotel pans

Bread Pudding Custard:

• 5.68 lt (6 qt) heavy cream
• 48 egg yolks
• 850 g granulated sugar
• 113 g vanilla extract
• 1 clove
• 4 Tahitain vanilla beans, split and scraped

1. Whisk all ingredients together well and strain through a fine-mesh sieve.

2. Place in covered container and allow to mature overnight in refrigerator.

Macadamia Streusel:

• 751 g macadamia nuts, diced into medium-sized pieces
• 680 g melted butter
• 1,757 g brown sugar
• 1 Tbs salt

1. Mix all ingredients together until crumbly.

2. Store in microwave-safe container.

Pineapple Bread Pudding:

• 850 g sliced day-old French bread
• 113 g melted butter
• 2 Tbs cinnamon sugar
• 3.78 lt Bread Pudding Custard (from above)
• 1020 g diced pineapple
• 227 g macadamia nuts
• 1360 g Macadamia Streusel (from above)

1. Lay bread slices evenly in #200 hotel pan that has been sprayed with pan release spray. Pour melted butter evenly over bread. Sprinkle cinnamon sugar over buttered bread. Cover with custard and let soak about 45 minutes, compressing the mixture to release air bubbles.

2. Sprinkle pineapple and macadamia nuts into pans and mix to combine. Top with streusel and cover pan with foil. Place in water bath and bake at 350˚F (177˚C) for 1 hour and 20 minutes. Remove foil and bake another 20 minutes, until the temperature of the pudding reads 175˚F (79˚C). Run knife around edge before cooling pudding.

Serving:

1. Portion into 4ʺ x 6ʺ (10 x 15 cm) rectangles and serve with a scoop of ice cream.

Vanilla Caramel Napoleon by Farid Azarang, Artelice Patisserie, Los Angeles, CA

Yield: 13 to 16 servings

Puff Pastry

• 240 g bread flour
• 760 g all-purpose flour
• 20 g salt
• 20 g white vinegar
• 440 g water
• 100 g unsalted butter for dough plus 800 g for lamination

1. Combine all ingredients except the butter for lamination in a mixer and knead without working the dough too much. Cover the paton (dough base) with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 12 hours.

2. Roll out the dough and place the prepared butter for lamination onto the paton. Give the dough two single turns and then allow to rest in the refrigerator until the dough firms up.

3. Repeat this process until you have given the dough 6 single turns. Roll to 2mm thickness, dock and reserve in the refrigerator.

4. Weigh dough down by covering it with parchment, then a sheet pan. Bake in preheated 375˚F (190˚C) convection oven for 20-25 minutes. Remove weight and continue baking for 10-12 minutes more, until dough is uniformly golden brown. Cool on rack.

Vanilla Cream

• 450 g milk
• 50 g heavy cream
• 15 g Tahitian Gold 3-Fold Madagascar Whole Vanilla Bean Paste
• 90 g granulated sugar
• 90 g egg yolks
• 25 g cornstarch
• 25 g all-purpose flour
• 30 g cocoa butter
• 150 g unsalted butter
• 50 g fish gelatin mass
• 50 g mascarpone

1. In a saucepan, combine the milk, cream and vanilla and heat.

2. In a bowl, mix the sugar with the egg yolks, cornstarch and flour. Add a little bit of hot milk mixture, mix, and then add everything to the milk mixture in the saucepan. Cook until boiling, 2-3 minutes. Add the cocoa butter, butter and gelatin mass. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate.

3. When ready to use, whip the cream mixture and combine with the mascarpone.

Chantilly Whipped Ganache

• 500 g heavy cream
• 2 g Tahitian Gold Madagascar ground vanilla beans
• 130 g Valrhona Opalys white chocolate, melted
• 35 g fish gelatin mass, melted

1. Bring the cream and vanilla to a simmer, then pour over melted white chocolate and melted gelatin mass. Let it sit in the refrigerator overnight.

Soft Caramel

• 160 g granulated sugar
• 160 g heavy cream, heated
• 8 g Tahitian Gold 3-Fold Madagascar Whole Vanilla Bean Paste
• 125 g unsalted butter

1. Make a dry caramel with the sugar and stop the cooking with the heated cream and vanilla. Cook to 226˚F (108°C), then mix in the butter. Cool down.

Assembly

1. Whip the ganache gently and set aside.

2. Cut three pieces of puff pastry into 4.7ʺ x 1.6ʺ (12 x 4 cm). Using a #806 pastry tip, pipe three cylinder on two of the pieces lengthwise, alternating with the soft caramel. Top with the third piece, flip the pastry onto its side, then pipe the ganache on top.

(This article appeared in the Spring 2023 issue of Pastry Arts Magazine)